FKT: Anna Maxwell, Shane Markus - Glacier Peak (WA) - 2022-08-14

Route variation
car-to-car
Multi-sport
No
Gender category
Mixed-gender team
Style
Unsupported
Start date
Finish date
Total time
11h 28m 45s
GPS track(s)
Report

Having never done Glacier before we had set an overly optimistic A goal of 9:30 and a B goal of 12:00 hours car to car.  We were aiming to leave around 6:00am, but got a slightly later start. No headlight/dark running was a treat (though obviously we still carried headlights/ten essentials etc). The trail was in super good condition and clearly had recently been worked on. Starting from the parking lot  you get 5 miles of rolling old growth smooth forest trail running, followed by some switchbacks until you emerge to traverse the most verdant alpine hillside.  Perhaps one of the most, if not the most scenic runs in the state! Then you head over towards the White Chuck Glacier/ glacial moraine. We hit off-and-on again snow and the trail was marked sparsely by some cairns. There seemed like many routes here depending on how much snow travel you wanted/ the level of melt-out you hit. Eventually you make your way to the bottom of Glacier Peak where you can decide to take a (class 4?) scramble route, which looked horribly loose or the glacier/snow route. There is a reason all the FKTs are on the snow/glacier route option- it's much faster. This would be where groups roped up, put on crampons, helmets, etc. After some mellow snow travel along the right side of the rocky ridge the glacier route traverses right then up, across your first set of crevasses. This traverse right has some rock fall danger and little stuff was coming down as we crossed under it. After crossing the crevasses and traversing back left you meet up with the path of the scramble route and unrope for a last push with about 200m of sandy dirt switch backs and then a final 200 feet of steepish snow to hit the summit. The summit register needs to be replaced (like the book is full). Our team was significantly slowed due to my partner getting serious cramps around mile 10, which persisted the rest of the day. He has no ultra running background and was drinking straight water the whole time and his body wasn't ready for the significance of the day. That being said, I had two packets of those salt electrolyte chewables and those + immense will power on his part- helped us keep moving and finish the day. We did take a lot of breaks as well which helped. For some reason my strava recorded my total time as the same as our moving time, but our total time was 11:28 and I thinking our moving time was probably a few hours shorter.  I think the snow travel on the way down was the hardest for my partner's adductor cramping and we took a lot of breaks coming down. We hit the summit slightly before 1:00pm and were the second to last group on the mountain. The snow was soft and plunge-stepable on the way down and could be quickly run down (if you were not cramping)/ depending on where you unroped. By the time we got back to white pass my partner had gotten his cramping under control and we were able to run most of the way back down and out. I wore shorts on this trip which was a terrible mistake because we unexpectedly spent so much time on the snow/glacier I got fried like a lobster and now have the worst short and sock tans of my life. Obviously, glacier glasses /sunscreen were also essential. Groups could get away with micro-spikes instead of crampons, but traction is def necessary. The crevasses were easy to navigate. I wish we had been up there a bit earlier; there was a lot of rock fall while we were up there (not in our path) and things were just getting a bit loose and warm for my liking. The snow conditions being soft would have let us fly down though if that was in the cards. We both started the day with 1 Liter of water and brought befree filter bottles. Once you switch to just drinking out of your filter bottle it becomes more important to consider salt/electrolyte intake. Since I gave the 10-20 salt tabs I was carrying to my partner I was very thankful I had brought some mash potatoes to eat as an additional salt source for myself so were both were not F*ed.  Despite the much faster solo FKTs on this route I think there are so many additional challenges that get added for mixed team attempts, as well as so much value. This was a truly memorable day. My partner was soooo tough. I know for a fact if I was the one with major muscle cramping early on we would not have summited. It's truly special to share a summit with a friend and it makes the memories that much more special. There were so many factors at play with a mixed team attempt (group dynamics, decision making, comfort levels, navigation, entertainment, fitness, communication, rope team considerations, glacier travel skills, paces, experience levels) and I think given the cards we were dealt this was a pretty hardcore day even if it was much much longer then the solo attempts. Nothing is ever going to go perfectly and big mountain days like this are what we are here for. Glacier car to car- offers the perfect manageable challenge if you have the skills to do it safely. If you are a super fit ultra runner looking for a big day, but have limited snow travel, crevasse rescue, and glacial travel experience this probably isn't the place to start. If you do have the skills, this one will be hard to beat!