A couple of weeks ago I set off on an amazing crossing of the Lofoten islands from north to south. Starting in Delp with a great weather forecast for the week, I had planned to go as fast as I could, with one proper re-supply point in Leknes which is just under halfway, and topping up my food at cafes along the way where possible.
The first day I set off late, since it takes a while to get to the start point in Delp by public transport. The fact the sun never sets makes this easier, and after a beautiful day going up Matmora I stayed in Sandsletta for the night. The second day was long, and started off beautiful with a high frozen lake. It ended with a frustrating, long, boggy descent.
On the third day there is a section where you have to take the bus and hitchhike, and on the 6.5km hitchhike section I failed to get a lift so I walked the extra kilometres on the quiet, rural road.
On the fourth day I hiked into Leknes, resupplied with dehydrated meals and snacks, and took the bus to Napp (you go through the tunnel where you can't walk). I hiked onwards all the way to Nussfjorden, my third very long day in a row, and happily finished at a pizza restaurant in the evening.
On my fifth day I wanted to push the distance a bit, to make the day with the ferry easier. I still had all my resupply food from Leknes so I skipped the optional detour into Ramberg and pushed on, knowing I had enough food with me to make it to the end of the trail. I stayed at the famous Kvalvika beach, and was pleased to find a food truck about 2/3rds into the day to provide some much needed extra energy!
On the sixth day I had to make it in time to Kirkefjorden since the boat only goes once a day, at 3:25pm. I put a bit of pace on, and got there 1.5hrs before it departed and relaxed in the sunshine with the other hikers until we were picked up. The boat doesn't go to Fjorsfjorden anymore, so instead you now get dropped off at Vindstad and you need to hike the coastal section to Fjorsfjorden. It is a very rocky, painful, slow going section but eventually made it there and up to "hill 445" for a beautiful sunny camp.
The seventh day genuinely became a little bit easier finally, and a nice halfway break in Sørvågen perked me up for the last section to my camp at the far end of lake Agvatnet.
The last day I got up early, headed over the pass to the coast on the other side, found the path to be overgrown, slippery and slow going. But spurred on by the thought of coffee and cinnamon buns in Å, we got there and back and I finished just before midday at the viewpoint.
Editors note: The out & back loop to Ramberg has now been removed from the route as it is not logical.