Does this idea start years ago when my brother and I both realized we liked hiked and started meeting up in Cuyahoga Valley National Park? Did it start when he moved to Utah and we did Santaquin Peak (via Loafer Mountain Trail and most people don't realize the trail actually goes to Santaquin)? A few days ago, I found myself on the summit of Cascade Mountain looking at the summit register where I had signed it *exactly* two years prior (unintentionally to the day). On that day, we met a man who was aiming to complete the Wasatch/Utah 7. There was talk about Cascade being the hardest in many ways. I thought "if I can do this one, maybe I can do all of them, too! How cool would that be since I don't even live here?" When looking up the seven peaks, I stumbled upon the Wasatch 7 FKT. I learned that there wasn't an accepted FKT, but there are some comments about people completing the peaks in 7 days. After hearing a podcast about women trying to get more FKTs completed in the female category, I figured "heck, I should give this a go!" I decided to go self-supported since my brother would be at work most of the days anyways so I wouldn't receive the kind of help I'd like if I were to do it in the "supported" category (i.e. I'd go through the night with pacers, have food brought, etc.). I tend to hike/run solo most of the time anyway so this style appeals to me.
I had wanted to give this a try last year, but it snowed unseasonably early which made it slow, slippery, and more dangerous. Since I have a full-time job and had already taken the vacation days, I didn't have much flexibility and had to call it off. This year, I came back with more experience and more fitness. I approached this very casually and figured even if it didn't work out, I'd do some cool hikes. Though, after the second day, I was pretty committed to finishing it up.
Day 1 (Friday): I decided to start with Lone Peak, because it was an unknown route to me; the longest; and people made the scramble to the summit seem intimidating. I do low class 5 scrambling so I figured it'd be no problem, but I respect the mountains and approach with caution. The route felt long - so many switchbacks. The part on the rocks was confusing to follow with cairns in every direction. Approaching the top, I found the scrambling to be a great time. I was able to help another hiker gain confidence to make it to the true summit. Yippee! He lives in the valley and has looked up at Lone Peak nearly every day and had never done it. Today was his day! This is exactly why the Wasatch 7 is neat - people see these peaks every day. How cool to be able to have stood on the top? This is a very aesthetic summit.
Day 2 (Saturday): When I'd started in the snow last year, I'd planned to start with Provo Peak from the Y (I didn't realize other routes were welcome in the FKT!) so I'd done 80% of the line, which was reassuring knowing more of what I was getting into. This route has the most elevation gain of any single peak on the FKT. I love the Y so it was a great start to the day! The canyon is gorgeous so my mood was bright and I was feeling good which was a welcome reprieve after feeling lackluster the day prior. I was eating up the climb, so grateful for better conditions and visibility compared to last year, and enjoying the leaves. Boy, was I in for a treat!? The trail on the other side of Kyhv Road is steep and loose and gnarly! But with patience and stopping to chat with a few folks, I made it up. Enjoyed beautiful views from the summit and then headed back down. I caught up with a group of two hikers and ended up talking with them for awhile before I ran out of water and decided I scoot the descent. PRed the Y descent which was silly, but fun after taking the rest of the trail slow!
Day 3 (Sunday): Next up was Spanish Fork Peak. The night prior I'd slept at the mouth of Maple Canyon. Despite AllTrails reports saying that the trail was open on Sunday and calling the City of Mapleton to ask if the road would be open, there were signs saying the road and trails were closed. Other cars arrived at the parking lot, some bikes headed into the canyon, and a sheriff vehicle even drove up and drove away without any trouble. It seemed justified to go from this direction, but I was uneasy about if I was breaking any rules despite the reassurances. Since this FKT description says different routes are accepted, I decided to approach from Sterling Hollow instead. I had seen a few people had done Spanish Fork Peak from that direction on the Strava Heat Map and I found a route locals use. So I decided to play it safe and use this alternative approach. There were absolutely no other people, the trail was dusty and gravel-y and covered in leaves, but I made it. The summit was awesome! The mailbox was pretty nifty. Only fell once on the descent :-P
Day 4 (Monday): I didn't know how entry to the alpine loop worked or where to find dispersed camping, so I ended up sleeping at a deadend in a neighborhood again and entering in the morning. No one was at the toll both when I entered and I didn't think you had to pay to park at the Timp trailhead on weekdays, but a sign indicated otherwise, so I completed a self-pay envelope at the trailhead. It was super cold and I started my walk shivering. After not seeing a single soul the day prior, I was quickly reminded that this is a popular hike for a reason. It's stunning. I told myself to take it reaaaaaaaaaally slow today and I did. I don't know if it was the accumulated fatigue or my body's response to a slower pace, but it was rough. I ended up having great chats with a couple guys at the summit. It was another experience where they live locally, but had never done the hike. I had taken longer than I wanted and was getting hungry, so I started down. Then a very nice 68-year-old woman and I started chatting at the saddle. I learned that she'd done 60 hikes in the Utah Valley before her 60th birthday and had climbed Kilimanjaro. Badass! I was heartened by how awesome this lady was and started descending at a decent pace... quickly my body reminded me that I was feeling sore and fatigued and my pace slowed again. This was physically the hardest day for me even though it was the easiest in many respects. I decided tonight would be the night to splurge for a hotel after sleeping in my car the previous days (more on camping and supplies below).
Day 5 (Tuesday): The least miles and least elevation gain of all the peaks, but still soooo gnarly. This route follows a couloir filled with rocks, a steep trail, and a ridge. You end up gaining 3,000 ft in about 1.1 miles! I'd done this route before and learned where to exit the couloir. Armed with that prior knowledge (and GPX), this was both easier and harder than I remembered. The couloir is beautiful. The trail is steep. The ridge is rad. The summit register is inspiring. It was nice to have a shorter day; I felt great, made good time and felt like this thing might really happen now!
Day 6 (Wednesday): Let's gooo, baby! The plan was to complete Loafer and Nebo in a day. The trailheads are only a 24 minute drive apart and I'd done both of the trails before (except to Santaquin not Loafer many years ago), but felt like they were largely runnable and with enthusiasm I should be able to cover 19 miles and 7.7k in daylight even after the prior 5 days. The night before was the first night I slept at a real camping area which helped my sleep tremendously. Seeing the stars and peeing on the ground is good for ya. I got up before sunrise to start getting set for the day. Made it to the trailhead and got started right around sunrise. The forest was a bit creepy in the morning alone (as per usual) and I saw so many animal prints in the dusty trail. Once I got above treeline, I found myself in my element - gorgeous saddle and ridges, peaks in every direction, and gorgeous leaves and lakes below. Here I was able to run a decent amount, had a strong climb up to Loafer, and descended the same way I came. Seeing Nebo in the distance made the end literally in sight though I tried to be present and safe in the moment. I made it so much quicker than anticipated.
In the car between Loafer and Nebo, I ate a peanut butter brownie, drank a Monster (lol), and changed socks and shirts. I arrived to Nebo TH around noon which gave me seven hours before dark. I'd scouted Nebo last year with snowy conditions and was able to finish in six hours. Each of the other days of this FKT attempt, elapsed hiking time didn't matter too much to me, but now, onto the last peak, I realized it did. I still wanted to enjoy the experience, but I also didn't want to dally. This is an excellent, enjoyable hike! I ran most of the saddle section and was moving smoothly. The last climb is to the ridge looks intimidatingly steep but you have the rocky ridge to look forward to. The ridge is spectacular. Made it to the summit, took a video, and headed back down. The initial descent was fairly slow since it's steep and I didn't want to fall. When the grade got manageable again, I was able to scoot. Finished at 4:12pm for an elapsed time of 5d:6hr:12m.
Other details:
Camping: Since all the hikes except for Timp, Loafer and Nebo start in the valley, I slept in my vehicle in residential areas on day 1, 2, and 3. I got a hotel in town on day 4, and dispersed camped off the Nebo Scenic Loop on day 5. I slept poorly in the residential areas due to being on edge about people being near. The hotel was a welcome reprieve to be able to shower, stretch out in a bed, and experience a different kind of quiet outside of public places.
Food and water: My car was packed with a great number of snacks and I have a canteen of water. The Peak View TH (Lone Peak) had a water spigot so I filled up there. The Y also has a refill station so I filled up there as well. I also got a few gallons from gas stations when I didn't where else to fill up. Gas stations featured prominently on this effort. I often got cold drinks and washed my hands, face, and feet at gas stations marts. I got food from restaurants multiple nights, which is interesting feature of this FKT being so close to cities. I still think the vegan pepperoni and fig pizza and roasted brussels sprouts I got on day 4 revived me.
Other choices: I don't love being on trail in the dark alone, so I opted to keep it during daylight hours for this effort. I enjoyed pure solitude the majority of the time. I am also grateful for some good conversations had on a few occasions and people sharing their stories with me.
Reflection:
It is strange to write this trip report from this particular vantage of self: my assessment of the routes and choices made. It feels very superficial in comparison to the feeling of communion with the mountains that inspire us and fill the soul. The mountains loom over the valley inviting your curiosity and relationship. It is ultimately so simple and such a privilege to experience them in this way.