Dear Trail Running Brother or Sister,
I set off from Cordillera Blanca Lodge (www.cbl.pe) around 4 PM, starting at an altitude of 3,500m (11,282ft). My goal? To complete the route in under 16 hours, aiming to return by 8 AM and avoid the intense heat of the Andean sun.
I based this 16-hour target on a two-day trip I had completed 10 days earlier with my dogs, carrying full gear for an overnight camp around the halfway point.
Seven kilometers in, just after the first river crossing, disaster struck. My foot got caught on a sloped rock slab hidden in knee-length grass. I heard a loud crunch in my left ankle—a sound that reverberated through my whole body. Being 46 and no stranger to injuries and broken bones, I assumed I’d just crunched some cartilage. I believed the pain would ease as I kept running.
After reaching the highest point at Yanacocha, it took me three agonizing hours to descend—something that had taken just one hour with a full camping pack on my previous trip. I ended up marching the rest of the way, determined to finish within 24 hours, which I did.
The next morning, I woke up to find my lower left leg swollen badly. I drove two hours to the nearest city for an X-ray, using my painful left foot to control the clutch. The result? No broken bones—but I had stress-fractured both my tibia and fibula and marched 84 km on them. Well done, right?
I’ll have to get back out there soon and try to beat my broken me time. There’s a bit more to this story, but I wanted to share the essentials.
**A word of caution about the highest pass:**
It’s EXTREMELY SKETCHY! The trail is very narrow, with sheer drops. Make sure you’re well-oxygenated before starting the descent—you don’t want to get dizzy from the altitude. Donkeys do this route, it is an old Inca Trail.
I filtered water along the way using an MSR mini filter from crystal-clear sources that you'll find throughout the route. Next time, I’ll create a GPS map showing all the water crossings.
There are a few small shops along the way where you can pick up basic supplies like biscuits, crisps, and fizzy drinks. But I did the route solo and unsupported, without resupplying food. I’m fat-adapted, so I rely on my body’s fat reserves during long runs. If you plan to resupply, make sure to carry small-denomination soles.
Feel free to reach out to me at i@cbl.pe for any additional info or recommendations.
Quick facts:
- Max elevation: 4,864m (15,958ft). For comparison, Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in Europe, is 4,806m (15,768ft).
- Don't underestimate the altitude! Consider staying at the lodge for their acclimatization day-trek package before you start.
- If you’re visiting Cusco: Do it first! Cusco is high-altitude, but it's more of a sightseeing destination than an adventure hub.
Best wishes,
Charlie