I had prepared this route with Parcs Canada indication and the reports in FKT page, thank you !!
Day 1
I left late in the evening after picking up my permit from Parks Canada. They gave me a complete weather briefing (heavy rain, strong winds, and a lot of ice up on the plateau). They also warned me that the trails were extremely muddy because of the rain. They reviewed safety precautions regarding bears, coyotes, moose, and other wildlife, and they lent me a Personal Locator Beacon.
After parking my car at Western Brook Pond, I set off in the rain. The trail to Snug Harbour is flat, easy, and very well defined. At the first river crossing (Western Brook), I discovered that the bridge was gone. The water was extremely cold and the current was strong due to the recent rainfall. Had I known, I wouldn’t have bothered taking off my shoes, since my feet were never going to be dry again before the end of the trip.
Day 2
The climb up to the plateau went well despite the mud and the very narrow trail. Visibility was less than 20 meters. After that, everything became brutal.
The northern section is quite difficult to follow. It’s a constant battle through tuckamore, mud, and at times swarms of mosquitoes. The Parks Canada GPX track helps, but it isn’t highly precise. The checkpoints are reassuring. Progress is extremely slow and energy-consuming, with moments when I sank into the mud up to my knees. Unfortunately, the weather was not on my side.
The boreal forest truly puts you to the test. At this time of year, only wildlife has created a few paths through it, and you have to learn how to read and follow them. Couldn't count how many times I felt.
At least the water is plentiful and crystal clear.
A few viewpoints warm the heart, and the mud and patchy snow allow me to spot moose tracks and eventually come face-to-face with one !!
I was stung by what looked like a large bumblebee. The area swelled over the following days, but nothing serious. If you are allergic, make sure to bring the necessary medication. As the day came to an end, I pushed on to the Western Brook Pond Viewpoint to camp. Despite the wind, rain, and nighttime hail, this spot is incredible for viewing the majestic fjord. Make the detour—it’s worth it.
Day 3
I was soaked through, from my socks to my sleeping bag. I left quickly to reach the junction between the Northern Traverse and the Long Range Traverse. The plateau at the crossroads is every bit as magnificent as you imagine. The clouds prevented me from fully enjoying it, but you can still feel the place’s mystical grandeur.
Once on the Northern Traverse, the trail becomes much easier to read, with far less fighting through the forest. However, the large areas flooded by the rain, combined with huge melting ice fields, forced me once again to make detours or wade through deep mud.
I had the intense joy of seeing another moose, once again looking down at me from an icy slope that I would have to climb using its tracks. We followed one another for several hundred meters. The terrain rolls along nicely here.
The crossing between Upper Green Pond and Lower Green Island Pond was technical due to the high water levels, but Parks Canada had pointed out a strategic crossing point (where the riverbed is very wide). There was no real difficulty, except for climbing onto the glacier on the opposite side during the first few meters. I wasn’t carrying crampons, though they could have been helpful.
After Ferry Gulch, I finally left the clouds behind, and the scenery became spectacular. The low-angle light of northern summer afternoons illuminated every pond and the valley in fiery shades of orange. The trail became obvious and straightforward, and the descent was smooth.
Once I passed Gros Morne, I chose the small northern trail to finish the descent instead of the rocky path. Given how close this trail is to the trailhead, I was surprised by its condition—the state of the steps, boardwalks, and vegetation raised a lot of questions. I would later discover that the trail is actually closed. Fortunately, the bridge located 300 meters from the parking lot was still standing. Make sure to check why this trail is closed; it’s possible that the bridge is no longer considered safe.
After the emotion of reaching the finish and the exciting prospect of finally putting on dry socks, a pickup truck full of fishermen gave me a ride back to my car. They were incredibly warm and friendly, and even shared the local remedy against bugs (a secret). If the opportunity presents itself, the road is very manageable by bicycle.
PS: I started without trekking poles, but considering the mud, making myself a walking stick turned out to be an excellent decision, it saved me 6-7 knees and anckles.
PPS: If you're aiming for an FKT (Fastest Known Time), I recommend scouting the route beforehand (or being naturally gifted at following an almost nonexistent trail), carefully choosing your weather window, and studying the weather from previous days, as it heavily influences trail conditions.
PPPS: I’m so happy to see this entry on the leaderboard fall to another woman’s record—one who will want to tackle this legendary route as fast as her legs can carry her! ❤️
Editors note: start July 3rd, 17:17pm and ended July 5th 19:09pm