FKT: Garrett Genereux - Smith Rock (OR) - 2024-09-05

Had a great time putting together running and some complex rope systems. I had thought out those systems for quite some time so that it felt safe but I could go faster than traditional lead rope soloing. My strategy for the Monkey Face via the Pioneer Route was:

• Rap into the notch via the Misery Ridge platform with a fully rated single rope, take in slack on the way up to ledge below the bolt ladder
• I used daisies and ladders to make my way up the bolt ladder (being able to French Free this would go a lot faster but I'm not willing to take the massive pendulum backwards if I blow it),
• Pass through the mouth
• Free climb the last pitch while using my daisies for temporary security bolt to bolt
• Clove the rope into the nose anchor and then self belay for some security up to the summit and back
• Fed the rope through the anchor and pulled it tight, blocked it with a clove on a triple action locker
• Then rap/tyrol back over to the original anchor, free it, pull, throw it all back in the pack and go! 

Definitely an R rated way to climb it but was acceptable to me for this overall objective.