I liked the idea of starting at Killen Creek TH and getting the climbing done first. Logistically for me it was easier to start from the South Climb since I was driving from Portland first thing in the morning. Saves drive time, a couple miles and some vert too. It was rather nice having all downhill once you tagged the summit! I also appreciated getting the trail portion done earlier in the day when it was cooler out. It’s beautiful, but not really any shade on any section of the route.
The forecast had moderate winds up to 20mph gusts and cool temps. I did pack a little heavy for extra safety margins and I get cold. Although a shell and gloves ended up being adequate, minus some numb hands on the summit, I did like the peace of mind having a light puffy in my pack. Carried food for 10hrs, and started with 2L of water. Filled up another liter at high camp just below the first main snowfield. There was running water above the tarn and that’s probably the best spot to fill up before the cleaver.
The cleaver is pretty loose and cruddy. I had only downclimbed it years ago after climbing the Adams glacier route. Definitely better going up but I don’t want to sandbag it and say it’s super easy. There’s always an easy way through the maze of loose rock, but sometimes it takes a little trial and error to find it.
Micro spikes were adequate, and I really appreciated them traveling across the ice cap. Even though it was low angle, the surface was a slick coating of ice. The decent was melted out this time of year, and you could choose loose rock or snow. I didn’t bring a pair of pants I was willing to destroy glissading on my butt, so I did a mix of rocks and boot glissading.
Really great route!