I wanted to get one last long effort in before the days got really short and the bogs deep, so I decided some weeks ago to put in an unsupported attempt on The Inn Way - Peak District. It’s literally on my doorstep, and although I was quite familiar with much of the route, I felt a need to get out in the hills and continue to hone my outdoor skills.
Although the distance is listed in both the official book of the route and on fastestknowntime.com, as 82 miles, my Coros recorded closer to 91 miles, something I didn’t realise until the final hours. It is also interesting to note that the current self-supported FKT GPX file of the route, held by Mark Aldridge, also reports over 90 miles, so the true distance remains a mystery.
In any case, my attempt began fairly early Friday morning in Castleton at the entrance to Cave Dale. the first of many magnificent dales that are a feature of the southern ‘White Peak’ part of the National Park. But I wanted to head north, towards Kinder and the ‘Dark Peak’ during the daytime and then work through the gentler hills of the White Peak during the long hours of darkness. The names White and Dark reflect the geography, with the White Peak consisting of often slippery pale limestone and the Dark Peak composed of brownish and very grippy gritstone. The slippery limestone is a factor to consider when choosing footwear.
Day 1
The first half went well, under ideal weather conditions - bright sunshine, cool temperatures and almost no wind, all unusual for late October. The miles rolled by, and I stuck to my nutrition plan of liquid calories for the first 12-15 hours, an idea borrowed from Tor runner Galen Reynolds. The Snake Path portion of the route was my favourite, with its somewhat remote, wild and mountainous feel. But there was also a good deal of bog, and so my hopes of dry feet gave way to accepting the misery of wet ones.
Just as darkness fell at about 5;30PM I approached the summit of Win Hill, less than a mile from my home and on a route I had enjoyed training and racing up countless times. But as the night wore on and I entered the southern half of the route, a mist crept in, lowering visibility to only a few metres. Even though the Inn Way is mostly on good, well-trodden trails, wayfinding grew difficult, and I had to rely more and more on the new Hiiker app I had installed on my phone.
By Baslow (mile 46) the battery on my GPX watch hit 10%, so I decided it was a good time to pause and recharge it while also resting in my bivvy bag in a mildly comfortable bus shelter. Half an hour or so later, and with my watch back at up to 80%, I set off into the cold, drizzly mist, promptly losing my way several times while also slipping and sliding in the mud and limestone. Dawn was still far away, with a long night to endure.
Day 2
Saturday started chilly and foggy, but I was fortunate to reach Nine Ladies Stone Circle just after dawn. The Peak District has quite a few small and interesting stone circles, typically situated in some of the more beautiful places in the area. This was also near the most southerly part of the route, and at this point I was under the impression I had ‘only’ 30 miles or so left. In reality it turned out to be closer to 40 miles. But as midday approached, the sun came through and I really enjoyed the final daylight hours before arriving in Eyam as the sun was setting. Eyam is famous for being the ‘plague village’ of 1665. An eerie place to be on Halloween, and the local residents also seemed to enjoy the occasion, with plenty of gothic horror on display.
By now I was getting very close to home, with a couple of small hills over Eyam and Abney moors before the final mostly flat miles along the River Noe into Castleton and the finish, back at Cave dale
This is a very pleasant and rewarding route through some wonderful areas of the Peak District, with a good deal of contrasting landscapes and terrain. As it was a totally unsupported attempt, I had to skip the 51 pubs along the route, but on previous visits to the White Peak I had visited the unforgettable Three Stags pub, in Wardlow Mires. This is a real throwback to another era, a cash-only venue that refuses to serve lager or food. Worth a visit if you happen to be in the area when it also happens to be open.
The northern parts of the route have abundant water sources, and so I was able to filter water whenever needed. Free-flowing water in the southern half can be scarce in places, and with the numerous cattle seeming to contribute to the algae-filled pools of water and sluggish streams, I instead refilled at the public toilets which most villages still have.
I have little doubt that a younger and faster athlete would have little trouble improving on my time, but it is also not to be underestimated, with many tough climbs, navigational challenges and quite technical terrain underfoot. A self-supported attempt could take advantage of the many shops, cafes and of course pubs along the way, as apart from the long stretch between Hayfield and Hathersage, there are plenty of places to resupply, especially between Monsal and Eyam.
I really appreciate and love the unsupported style, and I encourage more to try these 24 hour+ solo adventures, which are a fantastic way to connect with the land and connect with oneself. I am now much more confident about tackling such long distances in a single push, unsupported, which I believe to be a very valuable skill, no matter how fast or slow you are.