FKT: Jake Gerry - West Ridge of Forbidden Peak C2C - 2025-07-14

Athletes
Route variation
Standard route
Multi-sport
Yes
Para athlete
No
Gender category
Male
Style
Unsupported
Start date
Finish date
Total time
3h 52m 49s
GPS track(s)
Photos
Report

The West Ridge of Forbidden has a special place in my heart, as I'm sure it does for many. I first climbed it in 2022 after being away from mountains for a few years. I remember feeling wild, free, and more connected to myself than I'd felt in a long time.  A few years later I had the idea of doing a speed ascent. So in July of 2025 with my best friend Bace there to cheer me on, I went for it. I left the trailhead at 4:45 am with overcast and very humid weather. The couloir was melted out, so I climbed the gully, which was very straightforward. I was able to move fast, staying on the ridge the whole time, and made it from the notch at the top of gully to the summit and back in 25 min. I snapped a quick picture on the summit. I had a few falls on wet glacial polish on the way down, but nothing major. I was back at the trailhead before 9 am. I did the approach and climb in TX2 approach shoes, and brought aluminum crampons, helmet, and trekking poles, but no ice axe.  It was a wonderful trip in a beautiful area and an expression of the clarity, joy, and fulfillment I feel in the mountains.