This is the standard route, as best as I could tell from limited information out there. Route begins and ends at the gate from La Joya parking lot roughly 5k above Paso de Cortés.
There is zero water available, unless you chip pieces off the glacier, melt, and filter. Bring plenty.
There is only one refuge about 1/3 of the way up. Most of the way is exposed and you will drop deep into a glacial bowl and need to climb out on the other side and continue your ascent to the bare wide summit. Bring spikes!!
I brought one liter of water and two liters of electrolyte mix. Ate 4 gels, some gummies and a waffle along the way. Beautiful almost cloudless day. Popo volcano on the other side of the park was erupting and the strong smell of sulfer was present throughout the climb and descent.
Climb up was peaceful and minimal people. I only saw a handful of others who made summit gingerly descending. On the way back down I must have passed 100+ people who were being guided up the next day, many were setting up camp, or ascending to camp for the alpine start the next morning.
This route is barely marked, full of scree and scrambling. Very fun, but a can of yellow spray paint to freshen up the markings would be wonderful.
I'll buy tacos for the person who lowers this time!