SignaTUR Omveien, August 1–6, 2023
On Tuesday, August 1, 2023, we started our adventure of SignaTUR Omveien. We took the morning train at 06:34 from Oslo to Lillehammer, and from there a taxi to the starting point at Storlondammen. The GPS watches were started at 09:14. We arrived in Øvre Årdal five days later, August 6, at 14:13.
We both agree that this is a great SignaTUR with highly varied terrain. The route starts in a terrain rich with forests and mushy wet mires in Langsua, and ends between massive mountains and deep valleys of Jotunheimen. Along the way, you pass several beautiful viewpoints that are definitely worth spending some time at. We had a great time, with both highs and lows, and some real challenges along the way. It was the combination of the great experiences and the tough moments that made this adventure memorable. On the bus ride back to Oslo, we heard that the storm Hans was on its way into the country. If we started the trip just one day later, there is a good chance that we would have ended up stranded on a cabin somewhere in Jotunheimen…
The following is a day-to-day diary of our journey.
Day 1: Storlondammen – Skjellbreidhytta – Kittilbua – Vestfjellhytta – Liomseter
We started day 1 with an ultrarun of 50 km. Fortunately, the terrain was relatively runnable, with plenty of gravel roads. However we also had to cross some really mushy/wet terrain along the way. The weather was variable, but mostly good. Towards the end, we really felt the distance in our legs, with countless near-stumble situations. Luckily, we avoided heavy rain and arrived at Liomseter just in time for dinner.
Day 2: Liomseter – Storkvolvbua – Storhøliseter – Oskampen
Surprisingly, legs felt good after yesterday's distance. The weather was good and we moved through mountain terrain with many nice, runnable trails. Between Storhøliseter and Oskampen there was a large mire area, and there was no point in trying to stay dry in this section. Upon arriving at Oskampen, we were able to enjoy the beautiful view towards Jotunheimen, where our journey continued over the following days. Dinner also became a social event when some friendly and curious cows decided to visit us.
Day 3: Oskampen – Sikkilsdalsseter – Gjendesheim – Glitterheim
Another day with a 50 km distance, this time with a lot of elevation as well. We moved into Jotunheimen, surrounded by magnificent mountains on all sides. It was a steep and challenging climb up to the highest point on the Jotunheimstien (1525 m) and Sikkilsdalshøa (1778 m), but the panoramic views towards Gjende and Besseggen made it well worth the effort. A long waffle break at Gjendesheim was really nice before we continued.
Over Hestlægerhøe, there was cold rain, windy, and slippery rocks, which made it challenging and slowed us down. Fortunately, a buffet was waiting for us at Glitterheim, so we were able to refuel well even though we arrived late. Blisters were starting to appear, and we were beginning to feel tired in both our bodies and legs after several days of hard effort.
Day 4: Glitterheim – Glittertind – Spiterstulen – Leirvassbu
The day started brutally with a long climb from Glitterheim to Glittertind, gaining around 1000 m of elevation over approximately 6 km. At the top, the view was blocked by thick fog. We took a short break, hoping it would clear, but the cold forced us to keep going. The descent towards Spiterstulen gradually became very tough for me. Frederik asked what I was looking forward to when we arrived. Normally, the answer would have been a pastry, soda, and candy. This time, the only thing I wanted was a toilet to sit on. The rest of the day was marked by pain and stomach cramps and, as a result, was a lot of walking between Spiterstulen and Leirvassbu. The terrain here was actually beautiful and fairly runnable trails, but I needed frequent stops to empty my stomach. I had a severe headache, nausea, and uncontrollable shivering when we arrived at Leirvassbu. I lay in fetal position and had no plans of getting up again. Frederik offered some electrolyte drink and Imodium, washed my clothes, and sent me to the shower, where I stood for a long time trying to warm up. I had very little appetite to eat, but Frederik encouraged me to get some food before going to bed. Later that evening, I got a fever and began to wonder whether it was a good idea to continue. After taking a couple of painkillers, I tried to sleep through the night, but still had to get up several times to visit the toilet.
Day 5: Leirvassbu – Olavsbu – Skogadalsbøen
A rainy day from start to finish. Both the nausea and headache had gone when I woke up. My stomach was still not good, but we decided to make an attempt to continue to Skogadalsbøen. Also, my watch glitched and died halfway through the run, but luckily, Frederik shared his activity with me. This day consisted mainly of downhill sections and large boulder fields. The stretch towards Olavsbu was quite challenging, with a lot of rocky terrain. Frederik had not realized that Skogadalsbøen had installed generators and hot water since his last visit, so to our great relief, we avoided having to take a cold shower outside in the rain.
Day 6: Skogadalsbøen – Vettismorki – Øvre Årdal
On the final day, we descended more than 1200 m towards Øvre Årdal. It was pretty rough for our legs after several days in the mountains. On top of that, we realised after 2-3 km that we had forgotten to pay for our night at Skogadalsbøen. Since Frederik was in the best shape, he ran back to pay what we owed. We were lucky enough to meet some Germans who were able to take a couple of photos of us with the view towards Utladalen, and later had a nice view of the Vettisfossen waterfalls. The final 7 km on asphalt to Øvre Årdal went surprisingly quickly and in sunny weather.