Super thrilled to have completed Kungsleden! There was so much to love about this trail. Getting to experience the beginning of autumn in the Arctic Circle, meeting wonderful people in the small mountain towns the trail passes through, meeting hikers from all over the world, and also plenty of solo time just me and the mountains (and the reindeer), especially during the plentiful midnight hikes while everyone else was asleep. :)
I detailed the adventure through daily blogs and more photos that you can check out at pinkfeathers.com/kungsleden. Here are my daily updates:
Day 1 - Hemavan to Ammarnäs, 50.6 miles
Today went as well I could have hoped!
The scenery was incredibly beautiful. Most of the day was above treeline. It is really very remote out here! I can’t wait to share more photos and videos but here’s a few for now, below. I made it to the grocery store for tomorrow’s resupply with about 20 minutes to spare. Living on the edge!
Highs: Getting treated to a beautiful day, being in my happy place (the mountains), having a pretty smooth day.
Lows: Getting chased by a reindeer… with antlers! I survived! And midday my left knee bothered me a little, but then it felt better for the rest of the day. So, something to keep an eye on!
50.6 miles for the day including a grocery stop.
Tomorrow my goal is to get to Jackvik, approximately 58 miles. Ouch! It’s 7pm and I’m eating dinner. I’ll probably get a pretty early start. Their grocery store closes at 8pm and I’ll need to resupply for the following day and a half, so it’s important I make it in time!
Day 2 - Ammarnäs to Adolfström, 45.5 miles
What a day! Started at 2am, walked above treeline with a red sunrise and silhouettes of reindeer everywhere, got dumped on by rain for most of the morning, walked through some magical forests reminiscent of Long Trail in Vermont (with autumn colors already starting to show!), then very difficult footing making the second half of the day very challenging. Lots of mud, bogs, rocks, and roots. I was running on fumes by the time I got to the little lake town of Adolfström. I had already decided I’d stop there about 14 miles before arriving. A 58 mile day was not happening. Here I found a cabin and a small grocery store. Provisions for tomorrow’s hike include fresh homemade bread, homemade pastries, prosciutto, Brie, and a large variety of Swedish candy. Oh and microwave Swedish meatballs and mashed potatoes with gravy for dinner. I love it here. Onward!
Day 3 - Adolfström to Riebnes, 33.2 miles with ~5K lake crossings
12:30am start in an attempt to get to my first lake crossing early (which involves rowing), so that I could catch the next lake crossing after that by the 9am crossing. This section of trail was lakeside and therefore very rocky, rooty, muddy. Feels like home! I made slow progress, then as I got closer to the lake it started raining pretty hard. I felt nervous enough about rowing myself across a lake, doing it in the rain sounded scary! I actually had a cabin reserved right near the lake as I’d hoped to make it here last night. It was self-check in, so I got to make use of the cabin in the wee hours of the morning and took a two hour nap and dried out my things.
The rain cleared up a bit so I started the three mile stretch to the lake crossing. Another hiker just happened to be walking there at the same time as me. Given I hardly see a handful of hikers any given day, this was very good luck! I was immediately relieved that I had a rowing buddy. There was only one rowboat left on our side of the lake, so we had to cross once, tow a second boat back to the side we started on to leave one for the next hikers, then one final row to the other side. It was kind of an ordeal but a very fun part of the adventure.
The next section went above treeline and offered incredible views of the lakes below and mountains around. I enjoyed the views while getting pelted in the face with rain.
I descended to Riebnes Lake and pitched my tent to get out of the rain and bundle up while waiting for the next scheduled motorboat crossing at 4pm. My next lake crossing is 40 miles away so I’ll rest here on the other side of the lake then get another early start tonight/tomorrow. Destination, Kvikkjokk. Plus, soon I’ll enter the Arctic Circle!
Day 4 - Riebnes to Kvikkjokk, 42.8 miles including the 2 mile boat crossing to Kvikkjokk
Another very early start, 12:40am. I hauled butt all day to make it to the lake crossing 40 miles away at Kvikkjokk. The sky never fully gets dark because of how far north I am- there was a glimmer of pink in the sky when I started. I climbed up through the forest and above treeline as it slowly got lighter. When the sun rose, I was surrounded by completely open space, rolling waves of mountains all around me. There were no other people or creatures, not even reindeer, that I could see. It was just teeny me in the vast landscape. It was so beautiful I started to cry. I felt like the sun was saying hello just to me, as its bright red rays pierced the horizon. I felt seen!
The rest of the day I hustled through forests, bogs, and very 100 Mile Wilderness-like slab rocks, the big kind. I walked most of the day but ran like heck the last four miles after learning there was a 3pm boat I could catch to Kvikkjokk, the little mountain town signifying the end of the third stage of Kungsleden and beginning of the fourth. I was late, but the boat captain Björn and three Dutch hikers graciously waited for me. We were treated to an incredible tour of the lake. The water was perfectly still has the motorboat sliced through it. The other hikers and I couldn’t stop gasping at how beautiful the scenery was.
Björn took us on a quick walking tour in Kvikkjokk and showed us the enormous rapids right by the town, which freeze 95% in the winter. He also showed us where to pick the best raspberries and told me that I ought to read Thoreau. I picked up a huge can of split pea soup (I asked what was the most typical Swedish soup and this was recommended) from the mountain station and made my way to my cabin for the night. My feet look bad. My legs suffered for those hard four miles at the end of the day. I am happy and having the time of my life!
Day 5 - Kvikkjokk to Saltoluokta, 47.2 miles including 4.2 miles by boat
I started my day at 11:40pm. I had a boat to catch toward Aktse 22.2 miles away at 9am and I could not be late! The trail gradually rose and then wove its way around a huge lake, with mountains silhouetted against the clear night sky lined with dim light. Again, it has been dark but not totally dark at night, given the time of year. It was so cold I could see my breath, and the bog boards (planks) were covered in frost. Don’t slip! It was fun to imagine how it must look in the winter here. Total darkness, frozen lakes, and covered in snow.
I crossed a long pass above treeline as it got light out. Just before then, I walked through a birch forest and all the leaves were turning yellow. More signs of autumn!
This mountain reminded me of being in the Whites in New Hampshire. Large rocks all jumbled together, big slabs of rock sloping upward reminiscent of Wildcat. I noticed more and more bits of purple rocks, maybe slate? The geology is changing as I’m heading north!
I was in a euphoric state for most of the morning, it was a beautiful day and I was feeling good. I made it to the lake at 8:20am or so. Perfect! I had a sandwich and waited for the boat to come. The water was perfectly still and reflective.
The boat captains Malin and Ule arrived and we spent around 15 minutes waiting for a large group that never showed. That was okay, I was in no hurry. The next lake crossing was 6 miles away and not until 2:30pm. They saw my small backpack (this is usually the first thing that catches everyone’s eye out here, and sparks many questions!), asked what I was up to, and I shared about my record attempt. They were so excited and asked me a bunch of questions. Then I asked them all about themselves, it turned out they live in southern Sweden and work for STF (Swedish tourist association) in the summer in shifts. This was Malin’s second day out and she’d be here until the end of the season in September. She is also a trail runner and said I should say hi to Kathrine at the shop in Aktse as she’s a trail runner too (which I did)! The views over the lake were stunning. I asked if the water was always this still, and they said, “never!”
I walked into the mountain hut/camp area of Aktse and paused to change, put on sunscreen, charge my things. It was nice to have time. It had been so cold all morning but now that the sun was higher in the sky it was completely pleasant.
I knew on the way up the mountain, that once I had reception I was to call the next boat captains at Sitojaure to let them know I’m on my way. I tried calling, no answer. Then I met another hiker who said he had no luck either. He said he was planning to catch the 5:15pm boat, and that was the next one. Wait, whaa? And sure enough, there was a sign that said the only crossings were at 9am, 5:15pm. Oh dear. I still had 12 miles to go to Saltoluokta, and this meant I would have an extra long day and risk missing the shop closing for dinner/resupply. It wasn’t the end of the world, but in the moment it sure felt like it. I continued up the mountain and started to cry out of frustration. It was my fault, I was a day behind than originally planned and I forgot to check with the boat captain and confirm the crossing times for Sunday.
I then realized I hadn’t had anything to eat or drink in about four hours, which also explained my childlike tantrum up the mountain.
At the top of the mountain I tried calling again… and texting (by cell phone and GPS tracker), emailing, and even an Instagram message. Yes, very obnoxious. But I had to at least try and ask if they would be willing to take me across earlier than 5. No luck though.
I made it to the lake around 12:30pm. Nearly five hours I’d be waiting. I went to a small warming hut by the lake where there were some other hikers waiting, an Italian couple and then the Swedish hiker I’d talked to earlier. The couple offered some tea and I offered some of my candy and we sat around the table sharing stories.
Feeling sleepy, I thought I should probably rest, so I set up my tent and ducked inside. Just as I was dozing off, I was woken up by the roar of a motor. At first I thought I was dreaming, then it hit me, THE BOAT!!
A man dressed in what looked like a race car suit of neon yellow and black walked up to me as I was furiously breaking down my tent and asked, “Are you the runner?” And in a half-daze I exclaimed, “Yes!!” I quickly threw my things in my pack all in a jumble, my hair in a tangle, and stumbled down to the boat in total glee. I couldn’t believe it! A few other hikers that had been by the dock were able to get on the boat too. And we were off! I exclaimed to Lars, the boat captain, “You’re an angel!” He laughed and said, “Tell that to my wife!”
We arrived at the other side and I thanked Lars and Anna (his wife and also boat captain/admin) profusely. Anna said she was sorry she hadn’t seen my messages as she was somewhere without reception, I told her not at all and I was just so happy they came! They wished me luck. It was just after 3pm when I continued along my way.
The remaining miles over a chilly, blustery, cloud-covered landscape went by smoothly. I really feel like I’m finding my groove. It doesn’t feel like such a big deal to knock out these miles, like my legs and feet are getting used to it. Of course, the rest between lake crossings helps.
I made it with plenty of time before the shop closed, bought myself a big can of beef and vegetable soup and a sleeve of cookies, oh and chapstick. It’s been so windy and my lips are cracking! They had a bunk room available, and if no other hikers showed, I’d have it all to myself, which I did. I slept for about 9 hours, more than twice what I’ve been getting the other nights.
The mountain station is lakeside, and the next crossing is at 10:20am. I knew this would be the case. It’s a bummer I can’t get an early start on my last day+, but it is nice to get a full sleep, a real breakfast, and time to reorganize my things and take care of my feet. Plus I had time to write this extra long recap.
After the 10:20am ferry, there’s a bus that will take hikers to where Kungsleden continues in Vakkotavare. It is a long ride, scheduled to drop us off at noon. Then from there it is 66 or so miles to the northern terminus in Abisko (including a ~0.5 mile row, possibly 1.5 miles if I have to tow a boat back to the starting side). I started Wednesday, August 14th at 4:26am, so I’ll have about 16.5 hours to see if I can cover those miles and squeak under 6 days! Otherwise, it will just be, get there as fast as possible. North to Abisko!
Day 6 - Saltoluokta to Hemavan, 18 mile bus, 66 miles hiking, 0.5 miles rowing
After a 9 hour sleep at Saltoluokta Mountain Station, given the first boat out wasn’t until 10:20am, I woke up with a red and puffy face- puffy eyelids and bags under my eyes. It’s almost as if the extra rest allowed my body to go into full inflammation/repair/recovery mode.
I had my first meal not out of a sealed bag or a can in a while, fresh-baked bread which I slathered with a thick layer of butter and orange marmalade. Why does the bread and butter taste so much better here than back home??
I took the ferry with a bunch of other hikers under a clear blue sky then hopped on the bus with everyone to our next destination, Vakkotavare where the trail continues. It turns out the reason the bus ride is 90 minutes is because it stops at a café for 30 minutes halfway through (facepalm). I took the opportunity to fuel up on a slice of pizza and a cardamom bun. From the bus, I saw two rainbows on the way. We drove away from the blue sky and right into a pocket of rain to start the day. I felt energized and ready to take on the final 67ish miles. I bounded up the steep ascent, feeling motivated and excited for what lay ahead.
I was treated to three more rainbow sightings in addition to the first two. Rainbow world record! I was treated to an equal amount of cold rain showers. I’ve never taken my jacket on and off more times in one run. The temperature drastically fluctuated depending on whether the sun was out.
I descended down to Teusajaure lake, the final lake crossing! This one you could row yourself, or wait for the 9am or 5pm motorboat crossing. It would be 2:30pm or so when I arrived, so I was determined to row. Like my first rowing, I got lucky and had two hikers this time that I’d go across with. None of us had much experience rowing, so I volunteered since I had tried rowing a few days ago. It was very windy out and the water was very choppy. There was also a strong current that sent the boat spiraling once or twice. I worked very hard to keep us in the right direction. A day later and my left arm is very sore! Halfway through one of the hikers volunteered to switch with me, and I was happy to be relieved. We carefully switched places and he rowed the rest of the way, through the worst of it.
Once we were safely ashore, I zipped off to the next section. I was in such a good mood to start the day, but now I was in a foul mood. I think the rowing stressed me out more than I realized. It was a large lake for a novice to row across, and in rough conditions. I’m glad we did it, but I didn’t feel excited or empowered this time. I felt shaken up. I put on some music to take my mind off of it, and it helped.
It was a late start to the day, noon exactly when the bus dropped us off at the trailhead. By 4pm, many hikers I passed by were already setting up camp. I was in it for the long haul, ready to hike all night and then some.
As the sun slowly lowered, I was treated to maybe the most majestic part of the trail, a valley lined with sloping mountains on either side. It truly felt like the trail’s namesake, the King’s Road. I got inspired and put on Handel’s Messiah “Comfort Ye” and “Ev’ry Valley”. Very stately, very fitting!
The night portion was the most challenging part of my entire journey. The trail was strewn with rocks, the footing similar to the Appalachian Trail in Pennsylvania, plus the occasional boulder field reminiscent of the White Mountains. It rained off and on, making the rocks slippery, plus it had rained hard the night before so there was lots of mud. The night involved a lot of stumbling, toe stubbing, splashing, and way-finding. This part of the trail is the most popular, so much that it’s being loved to death. The trail looks like six parallel trails, as it has been widened due to so much foot traffic. This made it very difficult to follow at night. I had to occasionally turn my headlamp to a brighter setting to make sure I could see the next cairn or red-painted rock ahead, ensuring I was going the right way. This made for a slow going and frustrating night.
At midnight I noticed some light coming from behind of me, turned around and was actually scared for a split second. The full moon was peeking out from behind the clouds, but it was the most full, bright, shining moon I’d ever seen. It almost looked like an eclipse! I felt in awe and actually a bit spooked! Coincidentally I had been worried about the cold draining my headlamp battery, and now the full moon was shining brightly, illuminating everything. I said out loud, “You really want me to finish this trail, huh?”
I had started the day in shorts, but it was wet and cold and I knew I needed to change. My socks were also very wet. At the highest point of the night, and the entire trail, I ducked into an emergency shed meant for chopping wood. It was small and cramped with equipment and wood shavings, and to my dismay there was human poo someone had deposited in the corner of the shed. Yuck!! I quickly recharged my headlamp, changed my tights, and changed into another pair of dirty, but dry, socks.
The next section down from the high point was equally a slog, and my core body temperature seemed to be down. I was getting cold and needed to warm up. I had more layers in my pack, but the on and off rain made me reluctant to stop for anything, because stopping even for a few seconds meant getting cold.
Finally I came across a mountain station around 5 or 6am. I tried one building, locked. I tried another and found it open, with a kitchen and clothes-warming room inside. I took off my shoes at the entrance, went into the warming room which had a bunch of clothes hung up in it, took off my socks and put them in front of the heater, then I laid down on the floor in the sauna-like room, put my legs up on top of my backpack, and closed my eyes. This is really hard. I was ready to be done but there was still a long way to go, at least 22 miles on top of the 40+ I’d already gone.
After this brief stop, something changed. My body warmed up and I was immediately sweating in my layers and pulling them off to stuff back into my bag. I think the short “nap” was the reset I needed, almost like I tricked my body into thinking it got sufficient rest. Suddenly I was moving well and running again. It helped that it was light out again.
The rest of the day was dreamy. I cruised by beautiful glacial blue lakes, and the trail gradually descended over the final miles, getting warmer and warmer with the lower elevation. After a cold and blustery night high up in the mountains, I found myself surrounded by green- and yellow-leaved birches, the sun warming my skin, the sky blue again, and everything very pleasant. I couldn’t believe my body seemed to still happily be running after all the miles of the week, and still going almost 24 hours later from where I’d started my “day” in Vakkotavare. I’m usually very reluctant to push myself in this way. I think the usual me would break it up into two days, 40 and 26 mile days. Sometimes you just try and see what happens- you never know what you’re capable of unless you try. I ran as much as I could in the final eight miles, which was more of a run/walk combo. The final meters to the finish are in a wooden tunnel, with a fun map stretching along the walls on either side. To the left, the map showed every town and hut from Hemavan to Abisko. I hiked all of that! I reached out and touched the Abisko Kungsleden sign at 12:16pm, making my total time on Kungsleden 6 days, 7 hrs, 50 minutes. The first established women’s self-supported fastest known time on Kungsleden, and fourth-fastest self-supported time overall.
Thank you to everyone that’s been following along, thank you to all the kind people I met up and down the trail, and big thank you to Mountain Hardwear for providing gear and support for this trip. I was so happy with my set up and felt prepared for all the elements, and was especially glad I could trust in my equipment to keep me safe and warm.
I video documented this trip and can’t wait to share the vlog series which I’ll post on my YouTube account YouTube.com/PinkFeathersLiz in the coming weeks.
Now, sleep!!