FB and Instagram, you can find some content I posted live:
First Insta, then browse: https://www.instagram.com/p/Cu1CvOxtjqr/
First FB, then browse from that date: https://www.facebook.com/LouPhi.Loncke/posts/pfbid02dfZb1E4waAcVWG4UpVw…
Start and End:
Left Nice at 11h23 on 18/07/2023 and arrived in Thonon at 11h11 on 11/08/2023 so 12 minutes before doing exactly 24 days. As you can see in Thonon, I stopped also near the very end for a bit. I entered the townhall and asked if they were interested to cover the record or bring a journalist. I spoke with the Sports person but he had a lunch at 12h00. So after losing a bit of time I started running to the end.
The inreach shows a point at 11h07 but I waited to be sure it was showing on the map (there is a delay). When I saw the point, I checked at the route for the first streets and I started walking. The point in Thonon at 11h15 is because of the time interval. The GPS send at point at 11h15 while I was alrady there. Then I turned the inreach off at it sent a last point at 11h19.
PAck: 34 kg / Food 18.4 kg (net weight without packaging) / Water 4L
Debrief.
Like in every expedition, there's what we plan and then the reality. There's the things that will happen and things we didn't expect. Even if I succeeded to complete the GTA trek unsupported from Nice to Thonon-Les-Bains and even if it was a rather easy expedition, I've made a few mistakes that are great to know for the future.
First, the distance covered. For sure more than the minimum of 614 km of the GPX file I used. Some trekkers expected the GTA believes it's indeed closer to the 630km measured by Pascal Blanc and close to D+ 40.000m. Not really important because I must do the distance anyway? Correct but having +-34.000m or +-40.000m is a big difference if you need to calculate the calories to ingest.
Knowing the food left at the end of the expedition (I didn't eat everything and had certainly 2-3 days food left if I ration well), I ate 78.500 kcal and lost 6kg of body mass.
The pain in my left Achilles was unexpected. It started on day 5 and remained during all the expedition. I did shorter progression days. Only 1 day I started at 6 am and finished at 9 pm. Most of the expedition I think I started around 9 am to end around 9pm. The pain in my Achilles remained stable and that is the most important as I could finish the expedition without a major problem.
Not expected events
- Some sources of water (public fountains) were closed. Luckily I was told about it by hikers going in opposite direction and for one important source closed, there is a large river 500 away where I actually took a break, washed my dirty legs and drank a lot.
- On the first day I drank 7 liters. More on that day than in any deserts I have crossed. Why? I was not acclimatized to the heat, it was during a heatwave in France (you know, when the wind blows it feels like someone opened the door of the oven) and of course I start with a heavy (34kg including 4L water) backpack and must mainly go up all day starting from sea level.
- Past Briançon, towards Montgenèvre, there's some forest. I came across 2 groups of 2 migrants in the late afternoon, then as the night fell, I saw a group of 6 guys in the distance, they've seen me, I've seen them, I tried to stay out of their way. Just as I found a place to pitch my tent, I saw a migrant 30m below me, opening his sleeping bag on the ground. I decided to go 150m further. I was not reassured, they're not normally bandits, but I'm on my own, so if one of them decides to steal something from me, it could derail my challenge. I slept with one eye open, ears out of my beanie to hear. Around 2 a.m., I heard branches snapping, people walking not far from me. I said "Hello" loudly to let them know I wasn't asleep. All my belongings, even my rucksack and poles, were with me in the tent. Nothing happened. Phew. I finally fell asleep. I woke up and started my day. After 300m I came across 3 ladies having breakfast. A group of 20 migrants approached not far from their 2 tents and lit up their tent with a light around 2am. They didn't know whether to shout or keep quiet. They had already dialed 112, so all they had to do was to press a button to make a call. They also heard the police making their rounds. We were scared for 1 night. Migrants are no doubt scared every night throughout their journey from another continent.
Mistakes:
- On day 2, I fell forward, a lace loop from my left boot caught on the hook of my right boot. Beginner's mistake. This shouldn't happen. The phalanx of my left index finger is bent, it's still a bit sore today (20AUG) and a bit swollen.
- I took 2 short merino T-shirts from the same brand. The seams are in the same place and shear my shoulders and hips in the same places. I put them on inside out, with the seams facing outwards, but that doesn't make much difference with the weight of the bag. It's on day 4 that I finally decide to bandage the shoulders and hips. 4 cm wide and 20 cm long. That'll do the trick.
- Carrying too much water in the mountains. I have 4 bottles: 2*1L, 1*1.5L and 1* 0.5L. I'm getting rid of the big bottle after a few days because I don't need to carry 4 liters of water any more. On the other hand, in the high mountains and until the end of the expedition, I regularly carry 500ml between 2 water points without drinking. It's stupid to carry water for nothing, but it's better than the other way round. In fact, on the penultimate day, I refill my 500ml at 9am and only find a source with water to purify around 4pm. And on the way down to Lake Geneva during this other heatwave, I'm very thirsty. Better preparation would allow me to know with certainty where there is water and therefore avoid carrying it at high altitude where water is quite abundant.
- Too much food. I knew towards the end that I'd probably make it in 24 days instead of the estimated 25. I had forgotten the exact quantity of nuts and cereals and during the first 2 weeks I ate too little. I lost too much weight too quickly and should have lightened up. What's more, with the heatwaves, I didn't need to heat up my body during the day. Finally, it's better to finish an expedition with 1,4kg of food than to fail for lack of energy, exhaustion for 1 day. So I have to remember exactly how much food is in my pack.
- The shoulder strap on my new backpack ripping off. Clearly, with the usual bag for these expeditions, this wouldn't have happened. But hey, when you want to save 600 grams. And indeed, in the end, everything in this little bag means that the center of gravity is very close to my body, so there's little risk of losing my balance.
Good Strategy?
I think the Nice start was a good choice. Admittedly, I started with far too much water (4L), but I avoided the danger of long, long descents with a heavy pack (North). The GTA-GR5 is very easy to walk compared to the HRP, but you climb a lot more all at once, and inevitably you descend a lot more too. And to do this with a heavy bag while remaining focused at every step is the great difficulty of this project.
I estimate that 5% of people doing the GTA (GR5, HexaTrek) start from the South. So I meet a lot of people coming in the opposite direction. The GR5 signs are clearly designed for their direction, not mine. I've made a few mistakes. I had to turn on my phone and check the map to see if I was on the right path. I didn't have a paper map. 2 mobile phones with maps. That's all and that's enough, we're on a GR.
The advantage is that they (other walkers) tell me about the terrain to come or the water, but frankly, when it comes to water, they're quick to forget or make mistakes. 3 hours beforehand for them could be 1 hour for me if I'm going downhill, or double that if I'm going up with my big bag. And I can also decide that the water point indicated seems too risky to drink. The downside is that I've lost 1 day in total just talking to people. Well, during these discussions, I rest and gain followers on Instagram. Their testimonial is also proof of my progress, my big bag they saw and my relative slowness.
Conclusion
I believe that the GTA can be completed unsupported in 18-20 days. This means taking fewer supplies, being fast and above all working long hours from 6am to 9-10pm. I also had only 1 major thunderstorm and 4 days of rain, 2 of which got me completely wet.
I'm glad I took along a pair of super-light trail shoes that I used for the long runs on asphalt.
In any case, the Alps are magnificent. And there are villages and hamlets where I really wanted to stop and order a good meal but of course that couldn't be done during an unsupported project.