Yuhkin Peak (5,130 m / 16,850 ft) – FKT Trip Report
Date: August 10, 2015
Style: Supported
Start/Finish: Coffee Cat / Asia Outdoor Basecamp (Lenin Peak Basecamp, Kyrgyzstan)
Start Elevation: 11,900 ft (3,627 m)
Summit Elevation: 16,850 ft (5,130m)
Total Elevation Gain: 5,525 ft (1,684 m)
Yuhkin Peak is a striking 5,000-meter summit that rises above the Alay Valley, offering one of the most iconic views of Peak Lenin in the Pamirs of Kyrgyzstan. The peak is often used as a training and acclimatization climb for mountaineers preparing for Lenin, but to my knowledge, there were no recorded Fastest Known Times (FKTs) starting from Basecamp / Summit and returning the same way.
I began my day at Coffee Cat, the small café at the Asia Outdoor complex, enjoying a latte before heading out. The trail starts from the main dirt road that leaves Basecamp, gradually turning into single track through the broad glacial valley. This is easily accessed from either Topol Camp or Ak-Sai Travel Camp.
The first big climb begins just after the 3800 m Yellow sign, where the single track steepens and continues all the way to Topol Camp 1, about 8 miles (13 km) in, with roughly 2,900 ft (880 m) of gain. From here, the pass opens to stunning views of Peak Lenin and the surrounding glacier-carved valley.
At the 4,150 m pass, another yellow sign marks the route, though the writing is in Russian. The descent from the pass is fast and fun, following a faint trail parallel to the glacier bed before crossing a small river. After a few short but steep climbs, the route rises again toward Camp 1 (14,000 ft / 4,267 m).
At Camp 1, I was greeted by my friends from the Slava Topol Project, who had been working the season as rescue and mountain safety volunteers. They crewed me with water, gels, and plenty of cheering
From Camp 1, the trail becomes faint but visible. To the right, a rocky butte rises — that’s the second to last climb. The ascent is steep with switchbacks leading to a small ridge plateau. From here, a short snow patch (often with footprints) leads back to the main trail, which winds up a rib to the final 1,000 ft of gain.
I reached the summit of Yuhkin Peak (16,614 ft / 5,050 m) in 3 hours 02 minutes 09 seconds from Basecamp. I had two friends at the summit provide sugar tea and cookies.
For the descent, I skipped the switchbacks and surfed the scree field directly down the face. The route then retraces the valley trail, with a few punchy climbs before returning to the road that leads back to Coffee Cat.