I’d been section hiking this trail since 2019. I completed a thru hike (EaBo) in 17 days with my partner Aaron in 2023. This trail took me from a baby backpacker with almost no experience and challenged me to become better. This trail has been with me through a divorce, ACL tear/surgery/recovery, and finding love again. This trail has always made me feel strong and it means so much to me.
My goal was to complete the 223mile long hike in under 7 days with zero assistance or cached supplies. I ran a few ultramarathons this fall and committed to specifically training for this hike over the last 3 months. I had my audio books downloaded and FarOut updated. My pack weight was down to 26.4# with 12.5# of that being food. I read Nick Fowler's report from November and decided to copy his WeBo strategy. I felt like I knew what to expect (don't worry, the OT still had a few surprises for me).
Sat 3/14 (40.9mi) Pinnacle Mt St Park-> Brown Creek shelter mm40.9
5am start after stuffing my face at Wafflehouse and packing an extra sausage biscuit sandwich in my pocket for the big first day! Blister on my left heel, but I have leukotape! Rolled into the shelter at 10:30pm.
Sun (31.8mi) -> Big Bear shelter mm72.7
5:11am launch time. Almost accidentally climbed Flatside Pinnacle. Super windy all day. The pollen is awful, no worries, I brought allergy pills! Severe thunderstorm passes through about 4:30 as I'm approaching the Moonshine Shelter. I get about 2min of heavy rain then blue skies return and I opt to continue on. Cold night at Big Bear, put my filter and batteries in my bivy sack with me. Arrived at the shelter about 9pm.
Mon (27.9mi) -> John Archer shelter mm100.6
5:48am starting time today. I elected to sleep in since today is my "easy" day. Well that cold front brought freezing temps and I hiked in my puffy all day with the water filter in my pocket all morning. Water was slushy in my bottles. Feet and calves are hurting; guess there are no easy days out here. A caffeine pill and a few ibuprofen perked me up to finish the day. Landed about 8pm.
Tues (32.1mi) -> Brushy Creek shelter mm132.8
4:51am back at it! Still too cold and windy to hike without the puffy. I hit the halfway and I'm starting to feel good about finishing this. Then I notice lots of smoke that I'm walking towards. I check in with my fire guy back home and ask him to check it out and get back with me. Controlled burns by the forest service. The trail is closed 2miles after Brushy Creek but will reopen in the evening so my path will be clear tomorrow. He called the ranger and checked they have a procedure to clear the trail before they set off a fire so I don't have to worry about turning into a toasted marshmallow. Throat/nose is scratchy from the smoke/pollen. Soaked my feet at Fiddler's Creek. Made it to the shelter just before 10pm.
Weds (32.8mi) -> Black Fork shelter mm165.5
4:53am and it was hard to wake up this morning. Lots of uppies today, very little water, smoke/fires everywhere around me. Had to dig deep to find these miles; deep into my pocket for poptarts. Both feet have leukotape now. Landed about 10pm.
Thurs (32.8mi) ->Winding Stair shelter mm198.3
5:05am, another slow wake up. More uppies! I get to the Queen Wilhelmina Lodge and they've changed the trail since I was last here; no more parking lot walk! There's now a gravel path around the front of the scenic lookout deck. Saw over two dozen hikers on the trail today. Glad to finally reach Oklahoma! The climb to the Winding Stair shelter feels like 30 switchbacks, and it's dark. Suddenly I see a skunk! A spotted skunk! Never seen one in the wild before. Kitten sized and very cute. Arrived at 10pm.
Fri (25mi) -> Talimena St Park TH mm223.3
5:04am launch on the final push day. Every climb feels like the hardest one. Keep pushing. Fires still looming and smoke fills the skies. Keep pushing. Lots of crying today. It's hot now, 86 degrees. First day I've felt dehydrated. Keep pushing. Every step feels harder and slower. I don't bother rock hoping the final water crossing. The cold water feels good in my shoes. I arrive at Talimena State Park at 6:19pm. Time for a Mountain Dew, shower and some Mexican food!
Big thanks to all who supported with well wishes from afar, especially Aaron for keeping an eye on those fires! I still haven't gotten to stay at the Queen Wilhelmina Lodge nor have I ever hiked Pinnacle Mountain. Guess I'll have to go back!