FKT: Ryan Soares - Monarch Divide - 2026-03-28

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Route variation
Standard route
Multi-sport
No
Para athlete
No
Gender category
Male
Style
Unsupported
Start date
Finish date
Total time
23h 47m 49s
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Monarch Divide in a Day

March 28, 2026 | 23:47
Coats Meadow → Road’s End
Telemark. Unsupported. Single push.
58.5 miles | 15,500 ft of climbing

The Route

The Monarch Divide is often described as the more formidable of the Trans-Sierra crossings. John Moynier called it the “Ultimate Backcountry Ski Tour.” The Los Angeles Times once labeled it among the most difficult traverses in the range. Many quietly regard it as the true Sierra test piece.

The line follows the granite spine dividing the Middle and South Forks of the Kings River. East to west, it begins near Glacier Lodge or South Lake (Coats Meadow in winter), and ends at Road’s End. I chose to start at Coats Meadow and include the Palisades traverse, not because it makes things easier (it doesn’t), but because it makes the route feel whole and magical.

Bishop Pass. Thunderbolt Col. Potluck. Mather. Upper Lake Basin. Frozen Lake Pass. Lake Basin. Marion and Marion Pass. An unnamed, very real technical pass east of State Peak. Dougherty Peak. Goats Crest. Copper Creek Trail. Road’s End.

It reads like a list. It is not a list.

It is an undertaking.

And doing it in a single push is something else entirely.

 

The Idea

For years, this route has lingered in the back of my mind, equal parts beauty, uncertainty, and question mark. Could it be done in a day? Could I do it in a day?

The perceived cruxes were obvious: mid-route water and the technical passes. The real crux, I would learn, was continuity, the relentless accumulation of small obstacles that never let the day smooth out.

The Monarch Divide does not offer flow. It offers engagement.

At 12:01 a.m., I stepped on the pavement road at Coats Meadow under a thin moon. Six miles and 1,800 feet of climbing to South Lake. Jog the flats. Walk the climbs. Quiet excitement. Alone.

At South Lake, trail runners came off. Tele boots went on. They would stay on until Road’s End.

 

Into the Night

The climb to Bishop Pass moved well. The Palisades appeared as silhouettes against the sky, massive, silent. A headlamp is enough to move. It is not enough to truly see. At speed, terrain appears suddenly. Rock bands materialize like they were waiting for you.

After Thunderbolt Col and into Potluck, daylight finally returned. On the descent, I launched an unexpected 6–8 foot drop that arrived faster than my judgment. Mid-air, I wondered if my lightweight tele setup agreed with this plan. I stopped to check my gear, half expecting to find something broken.

It held. We continued.

A no-name pass into Palisade Lakes required skis off and some 4th-class down-climbing. I had my first full cartoon fall, boots landing on what looked like water but was actually ice. Feet straight up, back flat down. I lay there for a moment staring at the sky, grateful no one had witnessed the performance.

Except, eventually, there were people. A small group sipping coffee in down jackets. I skinned up to say hello. When you’re solo on something this committing, human contact feels almost luxurious.

Then back to work.

 

Mather and the Illusion of Ease

I skinned Mather Pass entirely, steep, firm, surprisingly secure. Dropping into Upper Basin delivered the best turns of the day. Perfect corn. Big, open skiing. A brief illusion that this was “fun” in the traditional sense (Type I). 

The Monarch Divide quickly corrected that idea.

Frozen Lake Pass, which once haunted my memory, went cleanly. I even skinned it. It’s one of the quiet advantages of tele gear, being able to lay a steep technical skin track, and a small nod to stubbornness. 

Once again another decent, rocky, choked. Early in the day I would chuckled, as you couldn’t change it.

Lake Basin was staggering in its beauty. More than on any other Sierra one-day crossing I’ve done, I found myself pausing. Trying to absorb it. The Monarch Divide is not just difficult…it is magnificent in every way.

That combination is dangerous. It pulls you deeper.

 

Where It Gets Real

I filled up with water here, repacked food, hooked the corner into Mariom Lake, and climbed up Mariom pass.

Marion Pass marked a shift. Good booting at first, then steep, firm snow near the top. The moment where you know you should put crampons on and also know your pack configuration makes that an ordeal. I chose momentum. Hard kicks. Focused breathing. Traverse to marginally better snow.

Over the top. Relieved.

Crampons moved to the top of the pack. Lesson absorbed.

Then came what most won’t see in a map or GPX file: the rock bands. Over and over. Sections that should have been recovery skiing became careful down-climbs and awkward transitions. Skis on. Skis off. Repeat.

The unnamed pass east of State Peak, which should be named, demanded full attention. Crampons on. Axe out. Steep. Undulating. Not long, but long enough. I briefly wished for a second tool. 

But this is the Monarch Divide. It doesn’t hand out shortcuts.

 

The Push

As I crested the summit of Dougherty, I could see Goats Crest in the distance. It looked impossibly far. Emotional, not because I was finished, but because I wasn’t.

It was 5:00 p.m. Seventeen hours in. And the terrain between me an Goats Crest was by far the rockiest of the day.

This is the part that matters most to me.

I didn’t push because of a time. I pushed because spending the night wasn’t part of the plan. Because I didn’t want my family worrying. Because speed, at some point in the mountains, becomes a safety decision.

Rock scrambling has always been a strength and often I have both hands in my pockets skipping through fields of boulders with a lightness. On this stretch, I leaned into it fully, opening margins, trusting years of movement. Not reckless. But committed.

In my 49th year, I don’t move with invincibility. I move with accumulated lessons. There’s a difference. It was amazing and in the most spectacular and worse ways.  

After a water refill and the last of my pocket bacon (high cuisine), I snapped a pole. For a brief second, the narrative turned dark. A broken pole on terrain like this can cascade quickly.

Then came the internal reset.

Everything I’ve trained. Everything I’ve learned. This moment is what it was for.

Ski strap. Gorilla tape. Functional enough. Move forward. And move with purpose.

 

Into the Night (Again)

One more short, slightly technical pass (unexpected) with skis off, and then more scramble and got into the drainage headed to Goats Crest.  There was more snow here, and the light was fading as the sun set. The glow on the mountains was breathtaking.  

Goats Crest arrived at dusk. Headlamp back on. Layers on. The descent toward Granite Basin held just enough remaining light to choose lines efficiently.

Then the trail or what should have been a trail. Rotten snow. Dirt patches. Downed trees. A half mile of taking skis on and off 30–50 times. I stopped caring about skins. I stopped caring about bases. I cared about forward motion and everything was in play. 

Eventually, it became trail.

Then 7.33 miles and 5,000 feet of descent to Road’s End.

A friend (DC) says, “How you do anything is how you do everything.” So I stayed in tele boots and ran it out. Not because it was comfortable, it wasn’t, but because finishing matters and with a respectable effort.  

That descent may have hurt more than any pass.

23:47. Road’s End.

Heart full. Emotional. Deeply grateful.

 

What This Route Is

The Monarch Divide is hands down the most serious Sierra crossing I’ve done. It is not just long. It is not just technical. It is cumulative. Relentless. Beautiful beyond words and difficult beyond what maps suggest and especially with this year's conditions. 

And to do it in a day, unsupported, solo, on telemark, felt like the right kind of unreasonable.

First known single-push completion.

I don’t say that with bravado. I say it with respect. Someone stronger and faster will improve it. That’s how these things work.

Lessons

  • Navigating complex terrain in the dark on skis will always carry consequence.
  • Small obstacles compound.
  • Conditions dictate everything.
  • Experience is not bravado, it is restraint when needed and commitment when required.
  • The mountains humble and elevate in the same breath.

Unsupported never means alone. My wife and kids carry these efforts as much as I do. Mark, Mike, Paul, Nathaniel, and many others…you each played a part in the success of this trip.  

To the next person who skis it in a day: I hope for you better snow and fewer rock bands.

I’ll be cheering.