Generally, pioneers traveled this section in August or September, just before crossing the Sierra Nevada.
I originally chose the date of September 14th because I have a pioneer woman’s account of starting it on that day, it is Alexander von Humboldt’s birthday, and my birthday.
According to Women’s Diaries of the Westward Journey, “At the Humboldt Sink the California-bound travelers faced fifty miles of desert and the vicious heat of the desert sun. Oxen died of exhaustion if they had not yet been poisoned by the water.”
Jane Gould Tortillott crossed the 40-mile desert on September 14th 1862.
These are excerpts from her diary entries:
Sunday, September 14th….The roads are literally lined with wagon irons and keg hoops and piles of bones every five rods.
Monday, September 15th…we thought we were almost there (the other side) but we kept going and going and it seemed as if I never could get there.
An earlier account from Catherine Haun’s 1849 diary described it like this:
“We…experienced the greatest privations of the whole trip. It was no unusual sight to see graves, carcasses of animals and abandoned wagons...The alkali dust of this territory was suffocating, irritating our throats and clouds of it often blinded us. The mirages tantalized us…animals often perished or were so overcome by heat and exhaustion that they had to be abandoned…One of our dogs was so emaciated and exhausted that we were obliged to leave him on this desert and it was said that the train following us used him for food.”
However, when I started on the 14th, the Mosquito Fire in California had just flared up and the AQI was 420, and it was too hard to breathe. I aborted my attempt and rescheduled for the 28th, driving and parking near the first marker.
The rules, according to Sean Ranney: "For purposes of the FKT, the route follows the Truckee Trail markers T-1 through T-13 set by the Emigrant Trails West historical society (https://emigranttrailswest.org/). Starting at marker T-1 and finishing when you touch the waters of the Truckee River near marker T-13, you are free to devise your own route between markers, following the myriad dirt roads or traveling cross country, with a few caveats.
First is that the route must stay south of Highway 80 and cross the Fernley sink (salt flat) between markers T-9 and T-10. Second is that there is no linear travel on paved roads, except between markers T-7 and T-8, and near marker T-10 where private property makes this restriction impracticable. To honor the historical nature of the route, this is intended to be done unsupported on a warm day, carrying all water and other supplies from start to finish. Start must be in the morning, no earlier than sunrise. Bringing a couple yoke of oxen is allowed if desired."
I also wanted to go when the pioneers would have crossed, in August or September (The Donner Party didn’t cross until October, but we all know that was too late).
This is how I followed the rules: First is that the route must stay south of Highway 80 and cross the Fernley sink (salt flat) between markers T-9 and T-10. I crossed the Fernley Sink salt flat, staying south of Highway 80 (see .gpx files).
Second is that there is no linear travel on paved roads, except between markers T-7 and T-8, and near marker T-10 where private property makes this restriction impracticable. I basically followed Sean Ranney’s route in these areas and in most other areas. If I varied his route, it was not on paved roads.
To honor the historical nature of the route, this is intended to be done unsupported on a warm day, The high was predicted to be 88 F, with high winds!
Carrying all water and other supplies from start to finish. I started with 9 liters of liquids, including homemade switchel. I also carried homemade hard tack, which I hydrated in a bag from time to time, homemade plum/apricot fruit leather, and mushroom jerky.
Start must be in the morning, no earlier than sunrise. I started at 7:01 AM. Sunrise was 6:50 AM.
Bringing a couple yoke of oxen is allowed if desired. Nope! But I did wear a pioneer dress and bonnet.
The following day, I rode my bike 68 miles back to my car.