Beautiful, rugged, and remote are all words to describe the Cohos Trail. I am humbly grateful to God for giving me the ability to travel outdoors and opportunities to experience this trail and sections of it many times, and specifically this one special trip. My husband gets my deep gratitude and love for supporting my outdoor adventures over the years, our thru hike of the Cohos Trail in 2019 and for making waffles and rides to and from trailheads for this trip. To the Cohos Trail Association, you have done a tremendous amount of work on this trail since I first hiked it in 2019; it just keeps getting better. Lastly, I'd be remiss if I didn't mention all those who went before me, known and unknown on FKT attempts and successes in the White Mountains, you are an inspiration to me. Eli Burakian, if you're reading this, at the end of your unsupported record, you spoke with a couple just starting their SOBO Cohos thru hike at the Canadian border at the end of Sophie's Lane. I was the woman of that couple and I'll never forget the minutes you took from your attempt to chat with us.
Day 1 Crawford Notch to Mt. Martha
We got to Crawford Notch just before 6am, an early start. I felt nervous but was able to eat my waffles and get started. Last minute addition to the 20.7 pounds pack, a red zip up fleece - my husband and I talked about it and erred on the side of not going stupid light, even though I had my puffy with me. So, 21.7 pounds it was to start. Over 11 pounds of that was food - the kind that looked like a 7th grade Christmas party mixed with an ultramarathon aid station, minus the red and green M&Ms. By the time I was done, I was regretting not having those M&Ms. It was time to get going and honestly, I was not looking forward to the climb up Mt. Crawford with that heavy pack. Thankfully, it is a short climb in the context of whole trail and I was on my way up the Davis path and into the Dry River wilderness. Lots of nice miles and didn't see anyone until almost to the Crawford Path, 14 miles later. I saw a few day hikers around Eisenhower and people out for an evening stroll around the trails near the Mt. Washington Hotel, but for the most part had the trails to myself. The sun set on the way up Cherry Mountain Road, and I went on to Mount Martha and found a place to camp off trail.
Day 2 Mt. Martha to Rogers Ledge Tentsite
Day two started early, but to make miles you've got to get up early and get moving, so at 4am, I headed across the ridge and out the Pondicherry wildlife refuge. The sun was rising as I walked through the Moorhen Marshes and was beautiful with the mist rising off the marshes and the sun trying to break through the morning fog. Going through Jefferson, it was into the Kilkenny, where I'd see a few day hikers coming back from their pilgrimage to Mt. Waumbek. It was then started a section that for me historically has been difficult, the overgrown section of the Weeks and Terraces. I did go into it with a calm mind set of gliding peacefully through the ferns ala Bill Tidd on one his FKTs through that section, but apparently this past season has been a little hard on that section of trail. There were more little re-routes and climb over blowdowns than last year's Kilkenny Ridge Race when I went through that section twice. My lowest point was climbing North Weeks, where between the blowdowns, steepness and heavy pack I was just moving so slowly. Like a lot of things in life, I had to remind myself that this was temporary and the way out was the way through. Eventually, I broke the grasp of plants and got over the Terraces. Close to Bunnell Notch, where I crossed paths with a nice gentleman out for a backpack and the last person I'd see for a while. Up Cabot I went, I spoke briefly with my husband and confirmed I was headed to Rogers Ledge Tentsite, which would set me up well for the next day's miles. He was going out to see movie and I'd spend the rest of my evening with Courtney. Courtney Dauwalter, that Courtney? Well, not exactly. But if I drink her Tailwind flavor, the Dauwaltermelon, I can run and hike like her, right? At least that's what I tell myself. Over Cabot, Bulge and Horn and up to Unknown Pond in the dark. There were two more miles to the tentsite from there and it was hard to keep moving, but I knew I needed to. Getting close to the Millbrook Pond Trail junction, there was stamping and huffing. I wasn't me. It was a moose. Thankfully, it moved on, I got to the tensite and was done for the day. Bonus! There was a bear box - it is the little things like that which can really make me happy at the end of a long day.
Day 3 Rogers Ledge Tentsite to Baldhead Shelter/Tentsite
Another start in the dark, going up to Rogers Ledge. Much easier this morning than near the end of the Kilkenny 50 last year. Downhill was nice to the trail junction. But wait. There is no trail junction on the north side of Rogers Ledge. After a quick check of the track on my phone, I confirmed that, yep, I got turned around on Rogers Ledge and went back south for .6 of a mile. SIGH. Not a good start, but went back up to Rogers Ledge and very, very carefully navigated my way NORTH and on to South Pond. Another lovely sunrise and I was headed to the Nash Stream Forest. Just below the Percys at the Devil's Rest Shelter junction, I met the only two people I'd see that day, two SOBO Cohos hikers. After a quick chat, I headed up to the Percys. Shout out to Moose and G. Soups! If you're reading this, then I finished - thank you so much for your encouragement. The Nash Stream Forest was lovely as always and Nash Stream was appreciated for the water. It has been a dry summer and many water sources have been dry - so a bit of thought had to be put into getting water and staying hydrated. The sun was setting and I headed into Gadwah Notch. It's getting late and what time is it? It's Moose O'Clock. Scaring up two moose and a bear, I finally arrived at the Baldhead Shelter/Tentsite. Side note: the Cohos Trail Association has dismantled the shelter and tenting will be allowed through October 2025. For further news, please check their website before planning to camp there. Indeed, I found a dismantled shelter, but the bear box was still there, yay!
Day 4 Baldhead Shelter/Tentsite to Tillotston Shelter
Another early start and this morning I worked my way through Kelsey Notch and up past the windmill farm and over to Dixville Notch. Today I saw four moose. I saw three on the windmill farm road, a young bull and then a cow and this season's calf. Closer to Panorama Shelter, popping out into a clearing, I saw the fourth moose of the day on the other side enjoying his late morning snack. I spoke to my husband at Panorama Shelter to give him an update as to where I'd be tonight: no sleep till Tillotston. If I wanted to finish in a certain amount of time, then I'd have to be willing to keep going no matter how long. It was a matter of how bad do I want it? Bad enough to hike through the night and not sleep much? Then that's what I needed to do. It was on to Coleman State Park and a reset for the next section to Young's Store. I saw a few people at Coleman State Park, but they were the last people I'd see until almost at 4th Connecticut Lake the next day. I was almost to Cedar Stream Road when the sun set again. I realized it would be my last sunset. The next time the sun set, if all went well, I'd be home. It was late when I got to Young's Store, but there was a nice picnic table and I sorted what food I had left trying to balance the hours left versus the food I had left. The next section was the hardest section for me after the jungle gym of the Kilkenny. It took me far longer to get to Tillotson than I wanted, at least an hour more. I had little trouble navigating some of the trail between Prospect and Covell Mountains in the dark, just looking for that next blaze and finding the treadway. I honestly feel like Gadwah Notch in the dark was easier. Oh, and it's 3am, do you know what time it is? Yep, Moose O'Clock. Again. Seems like moose and I both like to wander through the woods late at night. Later than I wanted, but grateful to be there I arrived at Tillotston, and carefully peeked around the corner of the shelter, not wanting to be someone's 4am alarm clock complete with bright light. Thankfully, no one was there and I did a few chores and got a 45 minute nap before packing back up and starting the last day.
Day 5 Tillotston Shelter to 4th Connecticut Lake
I could just see the sky starting to lighten up as I left Tillotston, not much headlamp time this morning. Quickly I came to the Bog Bridge Trail and confirmed what has been posted on the Cohos Trail website, the Bog Bridge Trail is closed for the moment due to logging activity. I had to walk up Route 3 and then down Magalloway Road to pick up Moose Alley Trail and head north. Not exactly the way I wanted to start the day and my feet definitely complained about the hard surfaces, but not much to do but get those miles behind me. The rest of the morning was super nice, it was cool, clear, sunny and the rails along the river were so nice. My husband and I used to maintain Falls in the River Trail and it was a joy just to walk through a trail I am so familiar with. It was a good morning so far, aside from a slight leg cramp that reminded me that I hadn't finished yet but was taken care of by some massive electrolyte consumption, I was headed to the last long bit, Sophie's Lane. At this point, it was just patience and keeping moving, taking in the moment, enjoying the solitude and peace on this trail. Then there was the sign. The sign that says 500 feet to the border crossing to Canada. So close, yet still a bit to go. My husband was meeting me to pick me up but I did not dare look to the right to the parking lot or monument area to see if he was there. Fueled by caffeine, gummy bears and adrenaline, I made my way up to 4th Connecticut Lake, seeing a group of three day hikers near the lake. Around the lake I went, and back at the sign, I stopped watch and tracker and took a few pictures. I had done it. 4 days, 8 hours and 37 minutes. I restarted everything for the last little segment down to the monument. I wasn't sure this was absolutely necessary as I had done all the trail - going back down to the border crossing was just going over the trail I had already done - but the data is there. If the section to the monument is included, then 4 days, 8 hours and 57 minutes. More importantly, there was my husband waiting for me, who timed it perfectly to be there but not disqualify an unsupported FKT in any way. I am happy and grateful to have finished this attempt, as I had failed twice previously. The weather was perfect, sunny, cool and no rain and everything just came together this time.