FKT: Tyler Andrews - Cotopaxi (Ecuador) - 2026-01-26

Athletes
Route variation
Round Trip (Refugio - Summit - Refugio)
Multi-sport
No
Para athlete
No
Gender category
Male
Style
Unsupported
Start date
Finish date
Total time
1h 21m 49s
Report

This ended up going very well. I had given myself permission to squeeze and, if things felt good, go for the short FKT. I knew I had to be about 20’ at the crampon point and then continue from there at ~6’00/100m+ to get up in around 60-65’, which was my goal, and I was right on pace for that. I hit the CP in just over 20’ and spent maybe 2’ there putting crampons on and then continued up, making very good time across the traverse and then up the steeper part of the ridge. I crossed the rocky piece at the base of the Yanasacha Wall in about 47’ and knew it would be very close to be sub 60’00 at that point, but I was way under my 69’xx pace from last year. The snow was a bit mashed-potato-y up high, with not fantastic traction, which was a bit challenging at times, but overall the conditions up to that point were fantastic and the weather was excellent. I remember seeing I was going to just miss 60’ but still pushed the last minute or so to the summit. It was very sulfur-y smelling up there but beautiful, with no wind and lots of stars out. I was in a light long-sleeve shirt and LaSpo wind-breaker the whole time and that was all. I didn’t even split my watch as I was in quite the hurry to get down for the RT mark as I knew it would be close. The time up on the segment was 59’43 but I think more like 61’43.

 

I knew the descent would be tough but I figured I should be able to get down in 20-25’ which would get me the round-trip mark. I was quite careful on the first 100m or so of descent where there was quite a bit of exposure and not much traction and then pretty much full-sent it all the way down to crampon point. I was 75’ there at CP again and just ripped my crampons off and left them there since I knew I’d come right back up shortly and then booked it down the scree. 

 

This was the only part where the darkness was a problem as I followed some footprints that went way too far to the right and had to cut back diagonally across but still made good time once I was back on the main trail and, at that point, knew I’d be under the mark unless something went horribly wrong. 

 

Finally, I could see the refugio and I ran down the last piece and tagged the sign and ran around the back of refugio to close the loop. The total was 1’21’49. I still think the uphill goes sub-60 with the right snow conditions and a bit more fitness, but this was a very nice day!