Introduction
I’d seen signs for the Hiraethog Trail a few times while doing short walks in Clocaenog Forest. It stuck in the back of my mind as one of those routes I’d like to do properly one day.
In 2023, during my first 50 mile race, I tore the meniscus in both knees. Since getting back to running in July 2025, I’ve been building mileage slowly and doing a lot of run-walking, but after Pendle Way in a Day in February, I was fairly disappointed with how it went as it was so muddy I ended up walking most of it and never really got a sense of where my fitness was at so Hiraethog felt like a good test.
The Plan
The original intention was to go for the first unsupported FKT. That didn’t last long. The heat was higher than I expected, and water on the route was far scarcer than I’d realised, so I ended up having to buy drinks at two pubs along the way, turning it into a self-supported attempt instead. I’d loosely hoped to get round in about ten hours. I also didn’t recce the route, which I regretted later.
Early Miles
I set off from Pentrefoelas at about 08:30. There was some cloud around and just the lightest bit of rain, which felt promising given what the forecast had been hinting at. The route starts gently, climbing on small roads and farm tracks towards Cefenen Wen before heading east. For the first few miles it was fairly easy going and I found myself ahead of schedule.
That didn’t last. Just after three miles in, I made my first navigation error at a farm. The GPX doesn’t quite match the OS mapping here, and you have to double back through an overgrown gate. I missed it, lost most of the time I’d gained, and got my first reminder that this was probably not going to be a smooth day.
At around four miles there’s an interesting boggy section. I was glad I was doing it in April and I dread to think what it’s like earlier in the year. Several of the gates along here had been tied closed with twine, but not in a way you could actually undo, so there was a lot of awkward climbing.
Heat, Water, and Cows
You hit a road at around six miles and reach Cerrigydrudion just after eight. I followed the road out of the village and managed my first water refill from a stream using a filter. By this point it was getting properly hot and I’d already gone through over a litre of liquid. I didn’t quite manage to replace what I’d drunk, which would come back to haunt me later.
The route repeatedly leaves and rejoins the same stretch of road after this, cutting corners through fields. Near a wind turbine I struggled to find the right line and had to jump a fence. Not long after that you pick up a lovely track with a forest of bluebells to your left, one of the real highlights of the day.
After another climb I found a river and made a final proper attempt to take on water. That turned out to be the last decent natural source I saw for a long time. Shortly after that, I met the first curious cows of the day. One of them followed me for about a quarter of a mile before I managed to persuade it to go and bother someone else instead.
First Pub
From there it’s a mix of tracks and fields to the Crown Inn at around mile 17. I went in for a can of Coke and a Fruit Shoot, which felt like absolute luxury by that point. I was about ten minutes behind my notional schedule and the heat was really starting to tell, especially on the climbs. My pace gradually dropped off as a result. Not long after leaving the pub I had my first encounter with loose farm dogs. I was very glad I’d already got my poles out by then to try and fend them off.
Clocaenog Forest
The route then heads into Clocaenog Forest, mostly on roads and wide tracks. There was less shade than I’d hoped for and the climb up to Craig Bron-banog felt like a real slog. The out-and-back to the summit felt particularly unnecessary, especially given there’s another path straight down that reconnects with the trail.
The descent was at least runnable, but after leaving the forest and climbing out of Clocaenog village towards Llys y Frenhines, things took a turn. The descent through the woods was extremely overgrown, with fallen trees and thick brambles. I’d been counting on the downhills to make up time, but that section was slow, frustrating, and scratched me up badly.
In Cyffylliog I stopped at the Red Lion for more soft drinks before heading back out. That probably saved the day.
The Slowest Miles
The next couple of woods were the worst of the route. In places there was no clear path at all, just thick brambles, nettles, holly bushes, and bog hidden underneath. One mile took me 23 minutes and left my legs covered in cuts and stings. I was now well off schedule and fully aware of it.
The following wooded section was slightly better, though still slow and with another navigation mistake thrown in. I noticed later that a previous FKT group had diverted onto the road here, which in retrospect was probably sensible.
After Llanrhaedr the route opens out into fields again, then on towards Denbigh. There’s a nettly field-edge section just after Denbigh where I was again glad this was April rather than summer. The final fields by the river were much more manageable than I’d feared, although they came with yet more cows. By this point my poles were packed away, so I made do with a conveniently-sized stick to wave about.
The Finish
After that it’s mostly roads, with a couple of footpaths before the end. The finish itself is slightly anticlimactic, with no Hiraethog Trail marker, just the Offa’s Dyke Path. I finished in 11:03:03. Over an hour slower than I’d hoped for, with a huge blister on my heel and legs that looked like I’d lost a fight with a hedge.
Final Thoughts
I’m glad I did the route when I did. Most of the bogs had dried out, but the nettles hadn’t really taken over yet. I’d strongly recommend April or May as the best window. Faster runners would likely have a much easier time doing this unsupported, but I really struggled to get enough liquid given the lack of water sources. There are also no open public toilets on the route, which is worth knowing. The first part of the trail is genuinely enjoyable. After Clocaenog Forest, less so, but still a decent challenge.
Comments
Update:
Towards the end of the day after the trail, I have got food poisoning which I suspect was caused by a virus not getting caught in the filter, another reason to do self-supported from the start 😅