I came across this FKT when I got derailed from running by a slightly torn ligament in my knee followed by an ankle sprain this summer. I realized I was not far off from completing the NE67 or the NE111. I used the VT 4000 footers one weekend as a test for my ankle and had no issues. I started planning for Maine and realized there was this unclaimed FKT. I have been looking for a stress-free challenge as I did defer my only race of 2023. This was the perfect way to tackle all 14 peaks without the long commute up and back for multiple weekends.
Day 1: I second the suggestion by Matt, start with Katahdin. Lots of logistics here, also time constraints as the park opens and closes at specific times. Having fresh legs here assures you to not run into any trouble. Hike 1: Baxter and Hamlin. As I walked to the sign in, I saw tons of thru hikers getting ready to finish their long journey. The day was already feeling magical, I knew I needed to embrace this hike and share conversation with the people on trail. I started at 7:45 am and got 0.46 miles in to realize I have the map preloaded, so I switched quickly to the preloaded route so I wouldn't get lost on the scramble (I still did). I took Hale up as there was a rainstorm the day before and it was the safer route of the 3 in slick conditions. If you are going for speed, definitely take the one Matt did. I got lucky and saw some hikers touch the wooden sign of the northern terminal, I cried. I hung around for a bit then scurried off to Hamlin, the rock was loose softball sized. Hike 2: North Brother. I didn't actually know close time of the park, starting this hike at 2:44 pm gave me a little push of anxiety. There were no views this whole day, BUT no wind so I can't complain too much.
- Transition: From here to The Loop and Bigelow's is the longest drive at ~4-5 hours (I went south to the highway). I drove slowly because I was paranoid of the moose signs. I also stopped for gas/bathroom and ate my food. I wanted to hike the Bigelow's this night but as I got to the road there was lightning in the distance. I decided to just sleep in the car and wake early.
Day 2: Hike 3: The Loop. I woke at 2 am to pouring rain and lighting to the north, I decided to sleep in more as it looked like it would pass by 4 am. 4 am came around and it was now moderately raining... It now seemed like it wasn't going to stop all day until 3 am the next day... what did stop was lightning, no strikes for 2 hours, I finally started hiking the loop at 8:51 am.. whoops. The road going to the trailhead had PLENTY of potholes and a washout that any car unable of off-road capabilities would not be able to pass (I added a picture for reference). Anyways, plenty of standing water, streams and slick leaves covered the trail. There was a sort of peace hearing the rain on the trees. The back part of the loop was old logging roads that turned into a swamp, which means there was STEAMY poop from moose and bear… I sung “moose’s and the bears, bears and the moose’s.” There were so many fresh tracks, I was on edge. From the logging roads it bushwacks to the AT and I got a little lost for about 0.5 miles, so I just moved in the general direction. It seemed like there were 3 false summits up to Abe, all exposed to the windy rain. It was slow going with the herd trail, logging swamp and bushwack but it still seems like it would be the most efficient way to get all these. After this day, I decided to change into warm dry clothes and sleep till the rain was gone.
Day 3: Hike 4: Bigelow's. I didn't really care to start in the rain, and I wanted to get more sleep, so I started hiking up to the Bigelow's at 6:12 am. Still slick leaves blanketed the ground hiding the roots and rocks, making it slow at parts. I took the Fire Warden Trail up and down, definitely has potential to be really fast in proper conditions. There is about a 1.5-mile lead in before any climbs, so 3 miles were flat! After the 1.5 mi lead in it was gradual until it became stairs. I was hoping for views, but I got up top to clouds and wiping wind. I had to put my poles away and be swift on the mountain tops. I took shelter in the structure left behind atop Myron H Avery Peak to take a picture and video.
- Transition: about an hour over to saddle back, perfect to refuel. Lots of construction happening.
Hike 5: Saddle/Horn. It FINALLY CLEARED UP! so so grateful to see. Started at 11:20 am. The ski trail is steep, as expected but since it is smooth you can just power up it. Some parts were slick from the rain and acted as a mud slide. Once past the ski slope the trail opens up to a bald traverse, it reminded me of the Presi Traverse on the southern side.
- Transition: about an hour and a half, another good fueling opportunity.
Hike 6: Old Speck. Started at 4:03 pm, the sun sets at 6pm. I knew I was going to run into the dark. Trail was great, nicely maintained which was good because I was focused on just moving to finish not too long after the sun went to bed. There was a fire tower at the top with a ladder straight up. It was cold but I climbed up shaking so I could see sunset over the whites, the rays shined through the clouds seemingly centered toward me (I added a picture looking towards Maine). A real sunset was a fantastic way to end this FKT.
Food/Fuel Note: I stored my liquids in a cooler and then had a bin for the snacks for quick re-fills between each hike. Each night I had a sandwich and Cheetos. During the hikes I relied mostly on carb drink (I mixed in a lot of apple cider, tis' the season!) but I also had bars and gummies oh and Halloween PEEPS (the ghost kind). I did not have to filter once, for The Loop I brought ~3.5L of water/carb drink.
Biggest Lessons:
- Katahdin Planning
- No lighting in forecasts for at least a week
- Do it before all the leaves fall (that was the most slowing factor)
Rough Totals: ~68 miles ~27,000 ft gain
This FKT was fun, regardless of conditions and as all challenges do, it showed me what I am capable of. It is a great FKT to double down on some peak bagger lists too. Finishing this challenge on Old Speck also completed my NE67. After this I hiked the remaining 2 peaks in the Catskills to finish the NE111 in the same week. Life spent hiking fills my soul. I hope this inspires someone to take this First Known Time down and experience the Maine 4000 footers.