FKT: Cyrus Desmarais, Steven Gnam - Eldorado Peak (WA) - 2018-07-11

Route variation
East Ridge out & back
Gender category
Finish date
Total time
3h 30m 5s

Steven Gnam and I set a new speed record on Eldorado Peak's East ridge on Wednesday, June 11th. We started the climb around 12:30 in the afternoon, and finished around 4 o'clock. Although we had both previously been on the route, this trip initially was meant to be a scouting mission. Setting of at a moderately fast pace, we emerged onto the first boulder field 7 minutes ahead of Leor's first split.

With great weather, good feelings, trail and glacier conditions, we decided to go for it!

Total time: 3h30m

Ascent time: 2h15m     

Descent time: 1h15m

Gear taken:

  • ice axe 
  • black diamond z poles
  • microspikes
  • 20m glacier rope
  • ultralight camp harness with carabiner 
  • ultimate direction skimo pack
  • light gloves
  • wind shell
  • hat
  • sunglasses
  • buff

Gear used:

  • black diamond z poles
  • microspikes (summit ridge only)
  • axe (summit ridge only)
  • hat 
  • sunglasses
  • windshell


Just want to say thanks to Steven Gnam for a great day, and Leor Pantilat for the inspiration! 



Gear Notes
ice axe, microspikes, poles, running shoes

Approach Notes
Route in good condition--a bit of snow in Eldorado basin


Guys...I'm sure you did this and more, but please please please...GPS. My dog wears a Garmin to take a pee (actually...he does)

Even folks WITH GPS and Strava have given FKTs a bad name--recently in the OR Cascades on a mountain. yes. it happens.

Terms like "around" this time and "around" that time, yet precise knowledge of being 7 mins ahead of Leor....? Strange.