Route: Eldorado Peak (WA)

Washington, US
10.5 mi
Vertical Gain
7,000 ft

Eldorado Peak (8876') is Located in the North Cascades National Park and is on the Washington Top 100 list. Fred Beckey calls this peak "Queen of the Cascade River" considering that it is in the middle of a collection of beautiful peaks. Massively aloof, perched at the edge of the largest contiguous ice-sheet in the lower 48 states not connected to a volcano, the summit has a Himalayan like splendor owing to its remoteness, position, and knife-edge summit ridge. The total climb encompasses a 6,800 feet of vertical feet (not including ups and downs) and can be made through one of two interesting approaches. The climb is not technically difficult, and a number of people climb up each year to experience the thrill of stamping out a "just-wide-enough" path on the summit ridge and looking into the heart of the Klawatti-Inspiration-McAlister icecap. Views into Marble Creek, Dorado Needle, Forbidden Peak, Mount Buckner, Logan, Johannesburg and the other peaks of the Ptarmigan Traverse. It is an exhilarating summit experience, the ridge gives one a feeling of being out in the true alpine environment. This is a mountain that any mountaineer visiting the Pacific Northwest really should see and climb it!

East Ridge: This is considered to be the Standard Route up Eldorado Peak because it has the lesser distance approach, the least amount of work, and is non technical. This route requires glacier travel experience as well as the proper gear for crevasse rescue. This route can be done in a long day push or as a enjoyable two day trip. The cool thing about the East Ridge is that it can be done almost all year round depending on weather, avalanche danger, and whether the Cascade River Road is open all the way to mile marker 20. This is a great route for most alpinist and provides you with some of the best views in the State of Washington.

GPS Track