So I'm going to write up quite a bit, and do a video but for now I'll just submit this short report and some photos.
On Monday, August 8 2022 at 7:26 PM I left the Hraunhafnartangi Lighthouse at the northern tip of Iceland and arrived at Dyrhólaey Lighthouse at the southern tip of Iceland at 10:11 PM August 21, for a total time of 13 days, 2 hours and 45 minutes. I carried all of my food and supplies and just picked up water along the way, but I did sleep in registered campsites in the National Parks as per regulation.
I followed the Baker-Quinlan Route mostly, although between Dettifoss and Lake Myvatn I took an off-trail route then onto trails over pasture, volcanic mountains and lava flows. The distance of my route was probably about 5 miles shorter, but much more elevation gain and technical over that section. They're file was pieced together and was well under real mileage. My Garmin gave me 375 miles, and although it's never perfect and included small diversions to get water or go to the bathroom, I'd say the actual mileage is probably between 355 and 365.
It was a trip of a lifetime that I had been dreaming of since reading Jonathan Ley's report from over a decade ago and started dreaming of doing it as an unsupported FKT a few years ago. However, as a professional and passionate photographer, I carried more weight than I needed with two small cameras, a Gopro, accessories and tons of batteries cables and a solar panel. I also decided that I wanted to not starve myself, so I carried 3500 calories per day. My pack started around 62lbs about half of which was food. It was tough in the beginning, but the Seek Outside pack I had carried that weight like a champ. I started in the evening, doing just 8 miles and then built up mileage as my pack weight dropped, going anywhere from 24-35 miles per day. I was so glad to have had the food and have taken the time to do a fair amount of photography and video.
I had incredible light with clouds and sun rays, I had torrential downpours and hours of relentless sun and heat. But most importantly I had wind, with one 36 hour period that rivals anything I have ever been through and was so glad to have had the ski goggles.
I didn't meet many other hikers out there, just one pair from the US and one person from Norway doing the traverse, although some go from Akureyri, which is shorter and has a different starting terrain. There were a few bike packers out there and some crazy hardcore vehicles. I crossed, arctic tundra, hiked on paved roads, followed miles of cliff edges, and passed huge canyons, lava formations, lakes, thermal vents, mossy fields and raging rivers. I camped at 4000 feet next to a stream that froze solid next to the terminal moraine of a glacier that's half the size of my state and I had a night of fresh snow. I saw the biggest waterfall (by volume) in Europe, stayed in a shepherds hut, saw so many sunsets and moonrises. I crossed over a dozen rivers, but none were ever higher than my knees.
The terrain from about 10 miles north of Landmannalaugar through the Laugavegur Trail to Thorsmark and up over to Skogar, about 60 miles in total, rivals any trail I have ever seen in my life as far a beauty points per mile. Check out my Instagram or FB for photos which I'll be posting.
I had some small blisters, Achilles issue, a few energy issues and I snapped both hiking poles, but besides that I nailed the gear and food and felt like I had everything I needed and not much that I didn't, although the gear had to be more robust than my normal fast packing stuff. I was proud to know I could carry all the food I need to cross a country. I'm no Art Brody, but a few years ago if you had told me I could hike 375 miles carrying everything I needed and enjoy the experience, I wouldn't have believed it.
It was everything I had hoped for and more. If you have any questions about the tip, please feel to reach out.