I’ve been wanting to give this a go for a while, I think I picked the perfect time! Slept at the trailhead, left (solo) at 5:40 AM. You know it’s getting serious when the ultralight earrings come out. The first chossy headwall took it out of me, but most of the ascent was smooth sailing! There was very little snow until 13k, and it was welcome once it did show up- faster than scrambling. I didn’t bring microspikes, nor did I feel the need for them. I did however wish I’d brought more water. I got to the top at about 10:45, took some pictures, and began the descent. The way down was much harder on my body and mind than the way up, especially descending the headwall. A certain house music playlist got me through it. I thought that I was cutting it close to the FKT, mistakenly believing it was 9:01, and I was flying down the goat path on the plateau above the radio tower before I thought to actually check the FKT. I realized I had a good buffer and decided to save my knees and walk the rest down. It was hot!
The main pieces of beta that helped me were that pretty much none of the bumps on the ridge are worth going around, and that there’s no good route up the headwall- it’ll suck no matter what. I brought one trekking pole and that was very much appreciated. Also, the summit pyramid after the saddle at 12.5k looks scary but goes faster than you’d expect. Fun day out!