Andy's account......
DAY 1
“You’re leaving now?! you’re too late, if you’re not there by 6pm you’ll be turned away (from the Refugi)”.
It’s 15:38 pm at the tourist office in Les Escaldes. We were on the 7am flight to Barcelona, we were delayed by the queues at passport control, hire-car faff and the drive took longer than expected. We hoped to start by 2pm.
“It’s ok” we said. “We’ve booked and we’ll be quick!” - we received a dismissive look that said we’re idiots (fair) and he handed us each a map and ‘passport book’… “collect your four stamps at the Refugi’s and bring the books back and we’ll have a special prize for you.”
We only planned to stay with two refugi’s because we were tackling the (normally 5 day) hike over 2.5 days but we’d pass the others during the day with a stop for lunch.
He gave us some initial directions and we asked no questions. We were late after all.
Ahead was stage 1 to Refugi de L’illa - 8 miles, 4700ft ascent. No worries.
Outside Oficina de Turisme d'Escaldes-Engordany
Through the town into a steep steady climb, it was hot and our packs were heavy. We didn’t get a good lunch due to the delays (a couple of croissants) but it’s all good, we’ll get a good feed at the Refugi. We hope.
Starting the hike through down and up aside the river
Most of the trail was a rocky woodland beside a stream, my favourite kind of trail. Half way up I realised we wouldn’t make it for 6pm, I emailed the refugi to let them know we were coming and be there by 7 latest and sorry for the delay, hoping we could secure ourselves dinner. We were on track to be earlier than that but I wanted to set expectations with time to spare.
The trail flattened off and opened up to a picturesque meadow with a couple of miles left but less motivating for me to move fast and I could see a way ahead with no buildings in sight.
We met a hiker who asked if we were heading to the Refugi de L’illa and told us there was no water for showers and maybe we wanted to turn back to one of the unmanned hut’s we’d passed. And miss the chance of dinner? No thanks.
I joked to Tom that the refugi might have told him they were full but there was space if the three of us didn’t turn up… I think he (the hiker) had nothing but good intentions but I was still confused at the suggestion.
The trail got a tad steeper, a tad rockier, our pace had slowed a little and by this point we were fatigued, moving as fast as we could, hungry, heavy packs (did I mention the heavy packs yet? #2) We turned a corner and the Refugi was in sight!
Reaching the Refugi de L’illa
We entered tentatively. A little unsure if we’d be scolded for our lack of punctuality. At the entrance we clambered, taking off our packs, hanging our poles, removing our shoes for the crocs provided and generally being a nuisance in the way for people passing us to head outside.
We crossed the boot room to the reception window - “oh you’re Andy - welcome! don’t worry we’ve got dinner for you - we’ve got no showers but water and I can show you your room”
The lady who greeted us couldn’t have made us feel any more welcome - she was fantastic! She showed us around and the table we’d eat at and then to our bunk room. We spent a few minutes changing our clothes and setting up our beds before heading out to the main room for dinner.
Food was my biggest concern for the trip. I don’t do well when I’m hungry. I’m a moody bastard when I’m hungry. I also don’t like cheese. It’s not a dietary issue. I just hate the smell and taste, since I was a kid. I’ll eat pizza, mozzarella but that’s all.
I knew on this trip I couldn’t be fussy. I knew I’d be so tired I probably wouldn’t care but I knew I might not like it. Mostly though I was just worried about not getting enough food. I needn’t have been concerned about dinner.
We were set up at a table shared with two young girls who had also hiked from Escaldes-Engordany, over a more sensible time than us, using just this leg for a hiking experience as they travelled Europe.
Water and wine for the table, a big bowl of (mostly) chicken noodle soup to start, with a few random things thrown in (hotdog?). A huge dish of pasta bolognese covered in cheese on top (it was ok I could avoid the top layer) and custard for dessert.
Our bellies were full and we were feeling good again.
Photos of the Refugi de L’illa, bunk room and dinner
I caught the host and let her know that we needed to pay for our (on tab) drinks because we’d be leaving very early in the morning. She kindly offered to make us a sandwich to take but she was super busy tidying up - I could see that, I had picked a bad moment.
She said come back at 10:30 (it was maybe 8:30pm at the time), Matt looked horrified. I said “ok, we’re going to bed soon but I can get back up.” In the bunk room Matt said “I ain’t staying up until 10:30!” and he meant it. I didn’t want to be rude or a pain so we gave it 45min and I popped out to the main room. Our sandwiches were ready and the (other) host sorted the bill. I also collected our first passport stamps - I let him know how much we appreciated it and how great dinner was.
It should be noted they did tell us they don’t normally offer take out breakfast, you could see how hard they were working over dinner, they were just being very kind and I felt super grateful.
Lights out. Bedtime. In our sleeping bag liners with the provided pillows and duvets. Bags at the ready to scoop out the room in the morning, aiming to disturb our roommates as little as possible when our alarms go off at 5:30am.
We planned to start the next day at 6am to see the sunrise at the highest elevation we’d reach - Collada dels Pessons (2,814 m).
DAY 2
We were up at 5:30 am as planned. Quietly as we could we snuck out the bunk room with our bags into the main room of the refugi to prep by head torch and get going.
Getting ready to leave the Refugi de L’illa
Outside we didn’t need the head torches because dawn was giving us enough light. We had a 1100ft + climb ahead of us to the highest point on the trip.
It was cold, around 6℃ (Feels like 3 ℃). Warm enough if you’re moving but I’d packed with heat in mind so only had a long sleeved tee over my t-shirt and the breeze cut through. I had warm evening or emergency layers but nothing just the right balance.
In 45min of easy hiking we’d reached the summit - Collada dels Pessons 9,232ft (2814m) above sea level. The highest I’ve ever been by foot. We stopped to enjoy, take some photos and generally celebrate what we were doing - it was stunning!
Collada dels Pessons 9,232ft (2814m) above sea level
We took it easy down the descent, easy was the plan for the day after the rush yesterday. We started early and should have plenty of time today for the two stages.
We traversed miles of grassy trails full of rocks, streams and lakes in nature that felt untouched.
One thing that hit me was the sound. Silence! unless close to a stream there was complete and utter silence. Nothingness, almost like watching a film on mute but less. I had never heard such silence before if hearing silence is even a thing. It was amazing.
Views and lakes after descending Collada dels Pessons
The terrain started to change into a ski resort, seemingly abandoned during summer. Gravel paths appeared and we were able to increase the pace but it was short lived before we had a distraction;
Is that a bird over there on that rock?
My first thought was confusion. I couldn't see anything around and I thought it was a bit early for Tom to be hallucinating. He pointed it out and Matt and I clocked on - there was a big eagle sitting on a rock!
Opposite we saw something else “there’s a penguin” I jokingly said, trying to make out the fat shape. It was a marmot! I’d never seen a marmot before. I didn’t even know how to say the word; “Ma’m-MUT”, I think.
An Eagle and a Mammut in Grau Roig
We moved on from animal spotting to run some single track cutting into the hillside and leading us towards a supermarket en-route.
It was about 9:30 am and we weren’t expecting to pass this (supermarket) during opening hours. This was great news for getting some food and drink. At the time I was confused how we’d managed to misjudge the distance and time to get here when scrutinising our schedule previously.
Snack break at the supermarket
Leaving the supermarket break it was climbing time. Up the road and into a steep grassy climb.
Immediately the air felt thinner and colder, again. I felt like I was breathing fast, panting. Turning to look back it was amazing how tiny the supermarket town had become so quickly and we could see the mountains we’d descended in the distance behind. The terrain was easy to move over but the climb was the longest of the day so far (about 2,000 ft over 2 miles).
The top made for some amazing views as we were about to descend again. The terrain was all good and from what I recall we were moving well although no miles were fast.
The climb and descent after les Bordes d'Envara
An unessecary out and back?
I’d identified on the map that the next refugi was an out and back and slightly off route. Sliding around the suunto app on my phone it looked like maybe 0.7 miles each way. A mile and a half of time we could get back… that’s a lot in the mountains.
We had clocked onto the fact that we weren’t doing well for time. OK, just, but not as comfortable as expected and we started to discuss the idea of skipping the refugi to make up time.
The idea of falling behind only became worse as the terrain became much more difficult and slow moving.
Technical terrain towards Refugi de Julca
We agreeded we’d stop for a break either way, but debated:
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Matt definitely wanted to skip the refugi and gain time.
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I was split, I really wanted lunch but also could have eaten what was in my pack and I wanted to gain time.
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Tom definitely wanted to stop at the refugi, partly as I think he seemed most keen at collecting our stamps and getting that ‘special prize’ from the tourist office.
We reached the point of the trail that deviates to the refugi. We could see it. Nothing like 0.7 miles, how did I get that so wrong? BUT. It was a steep climb we could do without and we weren’t even sure what food would be on offer.
“Let’s visit it”. Matt had the genius idea to dump our bags by a rock to save lugging those up and down the climb to the refugi. We decided nobody was likely to take anything but made sure go pro’s etc were out of sight and to keep our passports on us.
We skipped up the climb/scramble to the refugi and ordered some food. No pizza as they were cooking for a big party, sandwiches only but combined with cold drinks it was worth it.
Lunch at Refugi de Juclá
“Did you hear what she said?!”
said Matt, referring to the lady at the refugi counter.
”Yeah!” she said “WOW, you’re strong!” upon realising we’d arrive from I’Illa.
She didn’t know we’d started at 6am but it made us feel great.
We came back to our bags at the bottom of the climb to refugi de Julcá and the day was warming up. I planned to buy some sun cream in the airport but Matt said he had enough to share.
We’d just put our bags back on our back when I realised. “Oh, shall we put some suncream on?!” - “Nah, I think I’m alright” was the consensus, we needed to move and we just got ready. I went along with it.
It was around 1 pm. We had another stage ahead of us and during lunch had reminded ourselves of the distance and elevation. 10.5 miles 4090ft ascent 5127ft descent.
We were booked to stay and eat at refugi borda de Sortney. Regardless of booking you’re supposed to arrive by 5:30 pm for 7:30 pm dinner. It takes time to prepare food for a large group of people and the refugi needs to know before they start. I wonder also if they might have people arrive ad-hoc and potentially want to sell no-shows beds.
We had asked the lady at refugi de Juclá what the terrain was like and it sounded better… timings were going to be tight so we needed to get going.
A climb and a descent, a tricky, wet stream of a descent, deep into a valley ready to start another 2,000ft climb. Halfway up, we passed an unmanned hut, one we’d identified when planning our route for a pit stop. We didn’t stop. No time. I filled my filtered bottle and whilst the day was warm my hand was immediately very cold from dunking in the lake.
The climb was steep, grassy and the sun was beating on one side of my face and body.
We had spread out, Tom ahead, happier than Larry, and Matt and I slowly chipping away behind.
Top of our climb between Pic de la Coma de Varilles and Cap de la Tosa d'Entor
We reached the top of our climb and paused to consider what’s next; ahead we had a big descent, a BIG climb next followed by the final descent to the refgui. Anyone who’s spent long times in the mountains knows the descents don’t come for free. They’re harsh on your tired legs and easy to injure yourself.
During the last climb my mood had changed, I think Matt’s too. My mind was in a dreaded future, catastrophising about not getting dinner and what that could mean for the journey ahead. I was annoyed that we were in another race against time, we got up early to avoid this! Low on energy with heavy packs and a beating sun we were in no state for a race.
In the valley between the descent and the next climb I told Matt I’d managed to cheer myself up. I had managed to bring my mind back to now and became present, stopped thinking ahead and enjoyed where I was. Tom entertained us brilliantly with some stories and our minds were occupied nicely.
It didn’t last, we spread out again and I was left with my own thoughts.
We we’re in a huge basin, surrounded on all sides and had been climbing gradually traversing an edge. Whichever way you looked there was a huge climb and I wasn’t sure which we were being lead to. We chipped away. Slooooooowly. BUT WE DIDN’T HAVE TIME TO BE SLOW. I was depleted. I text Jenn: I didn’t know how I could possibly do the same tomorrow. She told me: “if we were stuggling that meant it was epic”.
In the basin and climbing out.
It was 6:20 pm at the summit. We were already 50 minutes late to the refugi. Tom was chipper and with 2.69 miles to go said “we can make it” (for 7pm, as had been discussed as our adjusted goal) Matt and I doubted it - I suggested he could run ahead.
The final summit of the day with a happy Tom and Matt showing the grind.
I was following Tom at the start of the descent and it was steep windy switch backs, I started having fun, maybe I could move fast? but then I stopped for a photo and Tom disappeared in the distance and Matt also passed and dropped me by the time I put my phone away.
The descent towards Refugi Borda de Sortney
Matt and I hobbled along within speaking distance and Tom had disappeared. I told Matt that Tom was running on for us, the earlier one of us arrived the better our chances.
I skipped an opportunity to fill my water flask in a stream with a mile to go, really thirsty but wanting to push on, a few minutes later I was regretting it. No miles are fast in the mountains. I should be taking my opportunities.
At some point during this stint. I said it out loud, to Matt. The thought that had been bouncing around in my head the last hours. With my degree in hindsight, probably the last thing he wanted to hear. At the time, with a poorly functioning brain, I even thought it might be welcome news to him;
“I might not go on tomorrow mate.” - “what? what are you going to do?!” - “I’m going to look at options for a taxi from near to Sortney.”
Tom text: “are you guys OK?” - I replied that we were 0.2 miles away and within a few minutes we met Tom at the counter of the Refugi - he had arrived 30 minutes ahead of us! Tom saved the day, the owner wasn’t happy with us but we’d secured our room and most importantly dinner. Thank you Tom!
He suggested we drop our bags to our room before dinner - Matt and I weren’t doing anything but ordering a drink and sitting down. Tom seemed a bit shocked at the state (and attitude) of us.
We sat outside and almost immediately got called in for dinner.
At dinner Matt told Tom what I’d said (about stopping) - we didn’t talk much about it.
I remember Tom saying “we’re doing well, the two stages should take 20 hours hiking and we’ve done it in 13” (and a half) and Matt said “imagine how you’d feel about it in future if you stopped now” - the latter (at the time) I didn’t care about, at all. The former did make me think maybe we (I) wasn’t as shit as I was thinking.
Dinner at Refugi borda de Sortney
Looking back to my messages with Jenn I told her:
“I’ve never been so fucked” - “Tom was a hero” - “It's brutal elevation but also really tough terrain so sometimes even flat bits are slow...” - “I need to look at options for tomorrow I think I'll be so so slow and fucked” - “I might be sunburnt” - “I'm honestly so depleted I feel like crying and this is after eating”.
After dinner, we went to our bunk room. We were greeted by some room mates who warned us they were getting up early.
Matt (or maybe Tom? but I think Matt) lit up! “I’ll stop you there!, what time? - we’re getting up at 4am!” - ah OK. They had alarms set for 5:30 am. Realising they were sharing the room with lunatics they started asking what we were doing and Tom got his map out and we had a brief chat about their days. They were nice.
We had a shower and went to bed. None of us sure if two or three of us would be starting tomorrow. It was 8:18pm.
DAY 3
I opened my eyes. 3 am. Shall I go? get a head start? No, that might get complicated. Alarms set for 4 am. Try and sleep, sleep will help. My body was ready for the toilet. Try and sleep.
3:30 am. Fuck it. Just get up and get ready. I climbed off the top bunk, collected my bag and slid out the room to the bathroom at the end of the hall.
Despite going to bed at 8:18 pm I felt like I had been trying to get to sleep until around midnight, my legs ached and my brain was busy and highly tuned in to any noise within the room.
While laying in purgatory my phone buzzed. I had had a text from our friend Paul that made me feel a bit more positive:
“Good job pal” - “grind that fukker out - you guys are doing well! hope your having fun 💯”
(my mind was probably improving from dinner and I was better placed to recieve some encouragement than when Matt and Tom tried earlier).
I replied. It was 10 pm, he probably wondered why the fuck I was awake. So did I.
“Get some rest and get the head down. You are well capable and just a case of breaking the day down into sections. On climbing, it’s a privilege and we are lucky to be able to do it… we have won the lottery that our legs and bodies allow us to feel that pain cave and see these incredible places. Muscles recover. You will be fine 🤟 get it done 💯”
I wonderd if Matt had told him I was struggling. (He hadn’t).
Preparing to start the day at 3:30 am
I sorted my pack and my clothes. I ate a bar or two. I text to tell Matt and Tom where I was and after 4 am walked back to the room - wondering if I’d set my alarm wrong. I might have made a mistake getting up this early if their alarms were set later.
No, Matt was up. I whispered/hand signaled - “I’m over here”. Tom didn’t see and we met him upstairs a few minutes later.
We’d made a pact to treat ourselves better today. At least I think we did because we didn’t exactly discuss it. I think we’d just all come to a mutual conclusion that we hadn’t looked after ourselves well enough.
We were drinking water, aquarius and Matt even filled a soft flask of orange juice from the breakfast counter.
Tom and Matt finished getting ready in the dining area and we headed out by head torch.
Leaving Refugi borda de Sortney by head torch
It was nice and cool. We moved along a gravel road and into some woodland, crossing streams - out of the woodland crossing roads, buildings, civilisation, back to some woodland, aside a river, crossing more roads and back to nature again. It was a slight decline or flat, we were moving well, chatting. It was great. We were all really enjoying it. Enjoying the atmosphere, the dark, the cool temperature, the varied and runnable terrain and each others company.
We had briefly assessed the day at last night's dinner. According to the hiking blogwe’d been using for reference this was the hardest stage, two big climbs and the most elevation of a stage. 12.93 miles, 5,795ft ascent, 4,839ft descent. The final stage for the second half of the day was easiest though.
We started the first big climb which would take us from 4,722ft to 8,503ft over around 3 miles. Tom marched on strong ahead, Matt and I kept it intentionally slower behind. It was a nice woodland, rocky trail aside a river again, like in stage 1. I was happy.
As we continued to climb it opened up and we started to see light and shadows across the mountains. We stopped to adjust layers and eat, looking after ourselves.
First climb of the stage and sunsrise
We reached the top of the first climb around 8 am and WE WERE ALL HAPPY! We’d checked the biggest climb off. It was about 8am it look 3.5 hours to get here I don’t know what this meant regarding good or bad progress but we got here, optimistic and feeling strong.
Mountain peaks surrounded us in every direction. It was glorious. Along a ridge and finding our way to the descent. The descent was steep, harsh on legs and technical in places, steep and gravel the path always off camber too. Needing poles stabbed into the ground so not to slip.
The descent became more gradual, traversing some lumpy grass hillside, then some nice single track and finally into the valley along gravel tracks. It should have been easier to move but I was really struggling again.
Matt and Tom were ahead of me for most of this section, waiting, continuing together, waiting, and repeating. I think I was just finding the section boring. It was pretty, beautiful of course but being tired I was struggling to make my brain and body engage. I just wanted the next climb to start.
Descending and to the next climb
I was much happier when we reached the final climb. 3,000ft ish in total but the next Refugi was 2,000ft into it and we’d stop for lunch.
Midway up the climb I stopped to text Olive good luck for her performance of Matilda which I was missing - the date was set after we booked the trip else I wouldn't have missed it. This should have been my reason yesterday not to stop. If you’re going to take time out from family, carve time for yourself to do these things come home having completed it.
We carried on to the Refgui del Comapedrosa, slowly with the heat of the day now beating upon us but without too much trouble.
It was a little before midday, we got our final stamps for the ‘passport books’ and ordered lunch - wohoo! I was very tired. Hopefully the bacon sandwich would fix me.
Tom was really excited for the next climb. It made me chuckle at how excited he was for it. Matt and I were enthusiastic to get it done, the last 900ft, last climb of any significance for the whole trip but we weren’t excited like Tom was.
Our packs were at their heaviest again all now with 4x full 500ml soft flasks - adding about 2kg. We overtook some hikers who kindly moved aside for our group as we gained elevation. It kept me moving at the back since I didn’t want to start yo-yoing with them. Even though they had nothing on their backs we continued to build a gap. We had done very little running but probably were moving better than I imagined the whole time.
I'd said to Matt on the way up I think we deserve a hug at the top. Once we got there it had left my mind as we took in the views satisfyingly and knew it was literally all downhill from here and metaphorically hopefully I could stay up. The food had hit my stomach during the climb and I was starting to feel much better.
Top of the last climb after Refugi del Comapedrosa
The beginning of the descent was really fun, some gradual and easy to make progress, then a small patch of really steep rocky gravel. Hike up to a ski lift then a off camber single track traverse across grassy mountains which was harsh on the ankles but with great views and the winding roads around we could watch the cyclists climbing and even hear them chatting far below us.
The worlds comfiest seat acorrding to Matt & Tom + hillside descent.
Further round as we were descending close to the road it suddenly got darker! I looked at the ground and it was a giant bird shaped shadow, a huge wingspan. We processed the thought at the same time looking up in amazement at several eagles circling. We all tried to capture it but no photo could do the moment justice.
Eagles circling above
We ran some roads and then into a bike park and long undulating forest tracks. There was about 7 miles to go and we were only covering around 2/2.5 miles an hour by now so it was going to take a while.
I kept my chin up until we descended a really rocky path that just hurt my feet, then happy to have it over we eventually popped out onto a road, dirt track, road where we managed to break into a jog, walk, jog walk. Exposed to the sun again.
We had a town in sight in the distance but couldn’t understand how there could be 5 miles left. It wasn’t THE TOWN. We got close and broke right, ugh more slog.
Matt asked if I was glad I did the day after all and at this point I was pissed off - I can’t remember exactly what I said but it wasn’t the response he wanted. We’d done the mountain part now and I felt like this was an unnecessary commute. I think I said I’d have been happy for a bus from the bike park or maybe my hesitation to answer was enough. He said he’d ask again at dinner.
The distance didn’t seem to go down. We kept moving and my watch kept showing the same mileage. We had a nice bit of woodland single track then popped out under a road intersection, past a concrete yard and along a river under a bypass. Bullshit.
We rubber banded mostly Tom and Matt ahead and me catching up. Matt asked me how I was doing and I answered too honestly again. I said what I'd been thinking - something about “I should remember I have a five hour limit for enjoying these things”. I knew I’d fucked up right away, he barely let me finish a few words before he moved ahead. I realised I’d barked at him and felt bad.
Gradually as we slogged it back to town I realised I wasn’t being what the guys needed. They were suffering too, I hadn’t appreciated that. We all needed to stay positive and I wasn’t doing my part. I maybe needed Matt to tell me yeah it is shit but get the fuck on with it. I probably needed shaking. Or maybe I’d only ever realise this in hindsight.
Some things aren't supposed to feel good at the time. A lot of it did feel good at the time. Some things are supposed to be hard as fuck at the time, horrible at the time but feel amazing afterwards. I had forgotten this.
I felt at times that I didn't have a right to be there, I was out of my depth. The only thing I didn't have a right to be was down about it. I had a few bad hours, during two and a bit amazing days. Never a bad day. I was doing something we get to do a handful of times in a lifetime, a proper adventure with friends.
Maybe I’ll stick to my 5 hour limit in future or maybe I’ll take this learning and get better at it. (It’s a 5 hour limit with diminishing returns after that by the way, not BOOM 5 hours, arsehole mode, but generally if we hit double those 5 hours I’m going to struggle - we had 2x 13 hr days)
The special prize.
I neglected to mention in my previous posts that over the course of the days the subject would turn to us wondering what the special prize might be from the tourist office. The most comical I came up with was a “50p off Burger King voucher” (we drove past a lot on the drive into town and were salivating about BK).
We made it into town and struggled to navigate to the tourist office. Using google maps at this point and our phones were very confusing and we were frustrated at running in circles.
“Do you remember us?!” Matt said excitedly to the man who’d briefed us two days ago.
“Yes” he said, uninterested, at least to our excited expectations of a fanfare. “Do you have the stamps?”
We faffed and thumbled getting our refugi passports out of our bags and were presented with our prize.
The prize? You’ve got 92km and +/- 6,868 m to go around the circumference of Andorra if you’d like to find out.
We made it! All three of us made it!