Friday, May 16, 2025
I’m in Soraypampa, it’s 6:08 a.m., and I’m starting my adventure on the Salkantay Inka Trail, listed among the Premier Routes on Fastest Known Time – FKT.
The route begins immediately with the climb to ABRA SALKANTAY. The GPX track directed me to a path on the left (after crossing the first bridge), but that entrance was fenced off, so I took the trail to the right, where many people were also ascending. I hiked fast and managed to pass all the groups. I reached a plateau – incredibly, there was a woman selling water, electrolytes, snacks, etc. From that plateau, you can see the steep vertical climb to the pass.
The temperature was freezing. I was wearing shorts over leggings, a thermal shirt, a long-sleeve shirt, a windbreaker rain jacket, a buff hat, two buffs around my neck, and gloves.
The climb goes up in tight zigzags and is quite tough due to the altitude and low oxygen. As I ascended, I caught sight of the snow-covered Salkantay peak rising above the clouds. About one kilometer before reaching the pass, there's a beautiful valley with two shelters to the left. From the Abra, you can see several snow-capped peaks — the view is spectacular. It felt as if the base of Salkantay was only 500 meters away. I took a breather, some quick photos and videos (a must!), and started descending. There’s a small lagoon to the right.
The first section of the descent is very technical. I descended to a small store, where the sun finally came out. I refilled water, took off some layers, changed my shirt, and kept going. The descent continued to be technical, so I jogged down carefully. Every 2–3 kilometers, there were shops or small villages. The trail was rarely smooth — most of it was rocky or uneven.
When I hit the dirt road (around km 23 to 39, it was hot), I could finally run at a good pace — not too hard though, since a big climb was still ahead, and I was carrying a medium-weight pack (with gels, salts, snacks, emergency gear, change of clothes, and personal items).
I reached the turnoff to climb to Abra Llactapata. A tough ascent.
From km 40 to 44, there are no shops to buy water, but you can refill using filters.
Llactapata is a stunning place with breathtaking views. There’s also a lookout point to Machu Picchu (I didn’t take a photo — I wanted to keep moving).
The descent was super technical, but I knew that after it, there would be a long false flat to Aguas Calientes — I was getting close. That descent felt endless, but when I started hearing the river, I relaxed — I knew the end was near. I finally saw the bridge, ran to it, and walked across.
I was now 12 km away from Aguas Calientes and started running again. Warning signs from the hydroelectric plant line the trail, which leads to a control post where you must register (no payment, just a sign-in).
I kept running along a dirt road until I reached the train tracks — a narrow, rocky trail.
Once again, the GPX directed me up a slope through a small store, but further ahead, I found stairs and a sign pointing toward Aguas Calientes. I went up the stairs (eventually, the GPX route and mine merged again). I reached another set of train tracks, and from there, it was all a long, flat stretch toward Aguas Calientes.
The weight of my pack and the rocky terrain made it hard to go fast, but I pushed myself to run as much as I could, walking for 30 seconds every kilometer. I got distracted and missed the GPX path, so I crossed a tunnel (dark and dripping — it was fun!). At the end of the tunnel, I looked down and saw people walking and buses labeled: “To Machu Picchu Citadel.” Luckily, I found a trail to descend and get back on route.
When I saw the final climb up to the main plaza of Aguas Calientes, I couldn’t hold back my excitement. I ran with soul, heart, and everything I had. It was incredible to hear people cheering as they saw me running up, and before I knew it, I was standing in the plaza, right in front of the “Welcome to Machu Picchu” sign.
With 10 hours, 43 minutes, and 33 seconds, I claimed that FKT.
An unforgettable experience, full of new lessons. We are so fortunate.
Find me on Instagram: mechu.rnl
If you want to do this route, I will be glad to give you all the parameters.
Hope more women start on FKT - Peru.