I created this route initially for my own enjoyment as I wanted to do the whole AT across the Smokies and come back to the same point, and a loop seemed more interesting than an out-and-back. When I saw the vertical gain I thought it would make for a good FKT challenge.
I then fast-hiked the route myself, solo and unsupported. I was hoping for about 72 hours total, but with more rain than expected and other logistical issues I stayed one extra night on the AT, and finished in 93h30.
I started from Davenport Gap at 11:04am on Tuesday, May 31.
After running the short road to Big Creek Campground, I crossed the bridge and started the long climb towards Mount Sterling. Pretty soon at higher altitudes there isn’t a lot of water available. It was a hot, sunny afternoon, until it started raining in the late afternoon. I was soaked and knew the sun wouldn’t come out to dry, so I decided I would keep moving through the night and hope for better conditions the next morning.
I reached the Smokemont Campground at nightfall, and crossed Newfound Gap Road at around 9pm. I briefly paused to eat and adjust my gear, as I was starting to experience painful chafing due to my wet clothes. I started the second big climb of the “day” towards Newton Bald. It was a very foggy night, especially at lower elevation. I saw some hogs. On the way down I realized I had lost one of my Katadyn filters and flask – thankfully I had a second one with me.
The creek climbing to Upper Sassafras Gap is very overgrown, and the bushes hold buckets of water. It’s hard to move through. I reach the Gap a little before 4am. The way down along Noland Creek is even worse. The trail is even more overgrown and crosses the knee-deep creek several times, with no dry passage. I was a bit worried to slip and fall in the water.
I emerge from the night and reach Lakeview Drive a little after 7am. I step into the Road-To-Nowhere Tunnel and continue until I reach the shore. I stop briefly at Backcountry Camp 74, and take a short nap, but it’s cloudy and I can’t dry my stuff. About an hour later I find a small beach with some privacy and spend about an hour there with my clothes in the sun.
It’s a little before noon when I start moving again. The Lakeshore Trail is quite easy compared to the massive climbs of the past 24 hours, but it has a lot of fallen trees from recent storms. It’s also hot and humid and I get quickly more tired. I see a few snakes and a couple of runners/fast hikers. Despite a few nice views, it’s overall quite a boring segment and I am antsy to get to the AT. But at sunset I get too tired to continue, and I decide to stop. I arrive at the Lost Cove Campsite (#90) around 9:30pm, quickly take out my bivy sack and sleeping bag and try to sleep while removing the many ticks that crawl on me. My legs hurt and it takes me some time to fall asleep.
I set my alarm for 3am, wake up, drain some blisters on my feet, collect my stuff, and leave a little after 4am. I arrive at Fontana Dam at daybreak (6:30am). It’s very quiet, not a single car or hiker, pink glow in the sky… I go back to the AT/BMT junction and start climbing.
I am happy to be on the AT. The air is already cooler with a breeze, there’s no fallen trees. It’s a beautiful, clear morning.
A little past 2pm the thunderstorms that had been brewing around for a couple hours finally hit. I am in-between Spence Field and Derrick Knob Shelters (6 miles apart) and despite running like crazy I can’t reach shelter before it pours. I reach Derrick Knob just when the rain stops. There are two friendly thru-hikers there. I stop for a few minutes then continue. The rest of the afternoon is rather dry and even sunny. I reach Double Spring Gap Shelter at around 7pm and decide to sleep a few hours and leave around midnight to finish the last 40 miles the next day.
As I try to fall asleep I overhear other campers saying that more rain is coming, and indeed a big thunderstorm hit. At midnight it is still raining a lot, and it continues all night. That’s when I made the call I would wait till morning and spend one more night on the AT.
I leave around 7am the next morning (that was quite a long “night” although I slept terribly). It’s not raining anymore but everything is very wet and foggy. I pass Clingmans Dome without stopping at the tower. The rocks are very slippery.
I reach Newfound Gap Road in the mid-morning, discard my trash, and run away far from the crowds in flip flops. Charlie’s Bunion is completely in the fog, no view at all. After that there is almost no one on the trail. Water is hard to find on the crest.
I arrive at Tricorner Shelter at 5pm. There are maybe 20 people there, and the sun just comes out. It’s a great evening, where I can dry some of my stuff and wash my feet. I chat for a few minutes and slide into my sleeping bag at around 8pm.
I wake up just before my alarm at 3:20am. I manage to get out without hitting any of the other sleepers next to me, collect my gear and start moving again. Short climb around Mount Guyot and it’s mostly downhill after that. I move fast, get a beautiful view of the Tennessee side with bright starts in the sky, then a bright red glow in the horizon.
I start moving even faster, reach Low Gap, short climb towards Mount Cammerer. The trail drops after that and I start running fast again. I see two people going up and another hiker a little later. I run all the way to Davenport Gap. 8:34am, Saturday June 4.
93 hours 30 minutes
With 50k of vertical gain over 163 miles (300ft/mile), this trail packs a lot. The upside is that the grades are always moderate and there is no very steep or scrambly section. The trails are usually well marked. The AT is impeccable, but the BMT has some overgrown sections and still a lot of fallen trees.
There’s generally a lot of water available, although it can be hard to find on the higher sections, especially on the AT ridges. Most of the water I drank I didn't even filter, when coming from a clean, running stream. That didn't cause any issue. The weather is quite humid and hot, which can be uncomfortable.
There are a lot of shelters/campsites with cables to hang food, so a bear box is not necessary. I had a piece of rope and carabiner with me to hang from a branch if necessary but I didn’t use it. I saw only one bear, but they are many around, as AT hikers will tell you. I also saw a few wild pigs and snakes, including rattlesnakes. At night, there are fireflies.
The AT section is absolutely spectacular, with flowers, views (when not foggy). In comparison, the BMT is a bit bland. There are several road access that would facilitate a fast Supported attempt. I hope others get to enjoy this challenge!