FKT: Reid Kerr - Three Fingered Jack (OR) - 2023-10-06

Route variation
Ascent from Santiam Pass TH
Gender category
Start date
Finish date
Total time
1h 25m 34s

My first ever FKT!! I planned to do this the next day but I was too excited. I left at 1:40 from Trailhead (verification of this start time is on strava and in video taken at start). Ran the 5.5 mile approach and felt sluggish and hot but kept a good pace (temp was like low 70s maybe). Reached the scree at just over 50 min and started the scree slog to the summit ridge. Weather became much better up top and the low winds cooled me down. Once on the ridge I felt very good and easily solo'd the technical pitches (easier 5th class but very exposed). Rumor had it "The Crawl" section of the climb had a hold fall off making it harder. I did not notice anything different since my last summit about a month ago so I cannot confirm. Chimney felt good with enough holds to make it a somewhat safe solo. I made sure to scramble the knife edge at the very top to get to the true summit as well (also shown in the video). At the top I took a video showing my time and I also have a video of the elapsed time and time of day before and after at the trailhead to prove my watch was not paused. Totally unsupported. Brought like 20 ounces of water, a cliff bar, and a gu. I also got the FKT for the car to car back to Santiam trailhead. I will upload this as a separate report. So so thankful these unique mountains exist in my home state!