Day 0.5 - 17.5 miles, Edale to Crowden
A beautiful and sunny day. Arrived by train into Edale at 12.45pm and started the path at 1.13pm. Pleased to have got as far as the campsite in Crowden. Brought enough supplies with me to cover today (and beyond).
Day 1.5 - 28.2 miles, Crowden to Hebden Bridge (Jack’s Bridge)
Re-routed around Black Tor due to wildfires. Very
well signposted detour. It was the easiest navigation (regular yellow flags) over Toolyshaw Moor to rejoin the path at Black Hill. Could clearly see the devastation on the path. Very excited to find the food truck at Wassenden Head about to open (and prepared to serve me hot food and tea). Got to the White House at Littleborough in time for a fish supper. Pushed on to get to the campsite at Jack’s Bridge (just after Hebdon’s Bridge).
Day 2.5 - 24.3 miles, Jack’s Bridge to Williamson Bridge
(between Thornton-in-Craven and Gargrave)
Re-route around Lower Walshaw reservoir (diversion was path on opposite side of reservoir).
Dinner at Lothersdale was very welcome.
Day 3.5 - 27.2miles, Williamson Bridge to Birkwith Moor (4km north of Horton in Ribblesdale)
Arrived into Gargrave early and was excited to stock up at the Co-op. This was followed up by an excellent tea break in Malham.
Malham Cove was stunning, as was Malham Tarn. Pen-y-gent was quite a scrambling surprise and the weather was challenging at the top (wind and rain).
Pit stop at hotel in Horton.
Day 4.5 - 28 miles, Birkwith Moor to Tan Hill
Arrived into Hawes in time for the best cafe breakfast (and a chance to dry out my feet, standard by this point). Stocked up at the Spa.
Pint in Hardraw, what a stunning day. Pleased to get as far as Tan Hill. Heavy rain overnight.
Day 5.5 - 25.9 miles, Tan Hill to nr Widdy Bank Farm (Widdybank Fell).
Rainy day. Clove Lodge - oh my days! I’m now a proper Spine tourist. Got to Middleton for dinner. Loved the waterfalls. Pitched up near Widdybank Fell on the River Tees. Gorgeous. Quite cold.
Day 6.5 - 27.7 miles, Widdybank to Garrigill
What a day!! River Tees, Cauldron Snout, High Cup Nick, Dufton (excellent jacket potato, tea and supplies to last the rest of the day), Knock Fell, Cross Fell (very lucky here, it had rained, but for me it was almost dry and very clear), Greg’s Hut, finally into Garrigill Village Hall camping, with a drying room!!
Day 7.5 - 27.8 miles, Garrigil to Windshields Crags (Hadrian’s Wall)
Alston garage sorted me right out, so many supplies sourced. Soggy bogs and then Hadrians Wall. Hoped to get further but bivvied in a low part of the wall. Incredible stars, no sleep.
Day 8.5 - 32.33 miles, Windshields to Byrness
Woke early (didn’t really sleep) and was rewarded with the sunrise of dreams along Hadrians Wall. Lovely pub lunch in Bellingham plus a big shop at the Co-op. After this I pushed onto Byrness, camping in Low Byrness.
Day 9.5 - 28.4 miles, Byrness to Kirk
I knew today would be a big day. It was. Loved skirting the border and the Cheviots are stunning. Arrived into Kirk Yetholm after all the hills and an essential trail nap, just before 8pm. Very tired.
I walked. It was never going to be fast but it was a really good way to experience this path. I was blown away by the beauty of this route, with such variety and I worked hard to get it done in the time I did. I wanted to make time to enjoy everything I was seeing but still to have a sense of pushing forward. This part of the world is remarkably special, as are the people. I am so grateful to have finally experienced this path and if this is accepted, it is a privilege to be a place holder before someone does this route fast! Huge congratulations to that person, it’s not easy! I endeavoured to keep to the path exact but sometimes this wasn’t possible. Map and signage didn’t always match. I retraced my steps on any wrong turns I took and spent much time trudging through fields/marshes to find a path, often unfindable. Paths evolve.