Followed the standard Bonanza Peak summit route from Holden Village. Depart the village and follow forested trail to Holden Lake. Proceed past the lake and up to Holden Pass. Leave the trail here crossing water fall slabs, accessing the toe of the Mary Green Glacier. Traverse up and climbers left to access the rock. 3rd-4th class scrambling on exquisite rock brings you to the summit. More information here: https://www.summitpost.org/bonanza-peak/150586
I brought a very light rack consisting of one 19cm ice screw, a Guide ATC, a 30m / 8mm static rope for rappels, a single and a double sling, and a yellow (2) and red (1) Omega Pacific Links Cam. I had Petzl Leopard FL crampons, La Sportiva Bushido trail runners, and a Petzl Gully ice axe. I also brought along the trusty Petzl Sirocco helmet.
The glacier was melted out so navigating crevasses was straightforward. Accessing the rock involved a bit of a leap over a moat, and the rock climbing itself felt solid soling.
