Route: Clark and Luahna Peak Double (WA)

CLARK MOUNTAIN - 8602' and LUAHNA PEAK - 8400' are commonly climbed together by mountaineers and peakbagging enthusiasts alike, with both a glaciated route requiring roped travel and an alternative traverse avoiding the glaciers.

This is not a casual trail run, technical mountain skills, including glacier travel, rope skills, crampon use, and ice axe use are necessary.

The following adapted from The Mountaineers:

GETTING THERE

Drive US 2 (Stevens Pass Highway) to the Lake Wenatchee turn-off (Coles Corner, 20.3 mi east of Stevens Pass). Turn north on Lake Wenatchee River Road (SR 207); bear left after crossing the Wenatchee River, proceeding west along the north shore of the lake passing the Lake Wenatchee Ranger Station. About 1.5 mi after the ranger station, take the right fork—White River Road (Forest Road 6400), to the end of the road (about 11 mi).

APPROACH

Travel the mainly level and easy White River Trail 4 mi to the junction with Boulder Creek Trail (.25 mi past the bridge over Boulder Creek). Ascend Boulder Creek trail. At 4,000 ft, the trail crosses Boulder Creek. Either wade the creek or use small tree. Continue up trail to suggested campsite at edge of clearing in large open basin  at 4,900 ft (7.5 mi).

There is an alternate base camp at 6,000 ft (8.5 mi), just below Boulder Pass.

ASCENT ROUTE

CLARK MOUNTAIN/WALRUS GLACIER

Find Boulder Pass Trail north of campsite and ascend toward Boulder Pass. At 5,800 ft, climb directly up fall line to left side of pass (1.5 hr). From left side of pass, climb 50 ft up ridge toward Peak 7242, then follow a rising traverse across the basin east of Peak 7242 crossing the northeast ridge at 6,700 ft. Turn west and traverse toward glacier (30 minutes).

Climb with rising traverse from bottom south edge (left) of glacier towards center of glacier. Ascend up and slightly left to miss large crevasse, then head west (right) to large basin at 7,600 ft. Head west-northwest toward false summit. Cross ridge south of false summit and traverse slope to major gully. Ascend gully to ridge and follow ridge west to summit.

LUAHNA PEAK/RICHARDSON GLACIER

Find Boulder Pass Trail north of campsite and ascend toward Boulder Pass. At 5,800 ft, climb directly up fall line to left side of pass (1.5 hr). From left side of pass, climb 50 ft up ridge toward Peak 7242, then follow a rising traverse across the basin east of Peak 7242 crossing the northeast ridge at 6,700 ft. Turn west and traverse toward glacier (30 minutes).

Climb with rising traverse from bottom south edge (left) of glacier towards center of glacier. Ascend up and slightly left to miss large crevasse, then head west (right) to large basin at 7,600 ft.  Contour westerly under the North side of the summit of Clark Mountain, and cross the ridge northwest of Clark, between Point 7970 and Clark Mountain.  Traverse west under Point 7970, cross its southwest ridge then head north to a col.  From here drop to the Richardson Glacier and bear north to the East Ridge of Luahna.  Scramble west to the summit.  Alternatively you may avoid the Richardson Glacier completely and scramble the South Ridge of Luahna to its summit.

DESCENT ROUTES

CLARK MOUNTAIN/WALRUS GLACIER

Descend the climbing route if there is enough snow. Otherwise, from upper basin on glacier (7,600 ft), head southeast to first notch east of Peak 8373. From notch (7,720 ft) descend steep snow slope in gully. Once out of gully, make a descending traverse left to 6,500 ft. Traverse south across slope and find major gully system leading to basin. Descend south side of gully to top of cliffy area. Cross gully with stream and descend into basin to lower campsite.

LUAHNA PEAK/RICHARDSON GLACIER

Descend the climbing route if there is enough snow. Otherwise, from upper basin on the Walrus glacier (7,600 ft), head southeast to first notch east of Peak 8373. From notch (7,720 ft) descend steep snow slope in gully. Once out of gully, make a descending traverse left to 6,500 ft. Traverse south across slope and find major gully system leading to basin. Descend south side of gully to top of cliffy area. Cross gully with stream and descend into basin to lower campsite.

further research

Lemke Trip Report

EBC Trip Report

Film by Eric Gilbertson

- submitted by Jason Hardrath (IG)