The Dent Blanche is a giant pyramid of rock and ice, its imposing form towering over the head of the Val d'Hérens. Intimidating in its steepness, it remains a mountain of singular beauty, a truly majestic presence in the Valais Alps.
In general the ascent is done in two days, because of the total elevation gain (2600 m) and the quite long technical section up and along the ridge (850 m of elevation gain) which takes most rope teams between 3-5 hours up and about the same time back down to the hut.
Doing the entire route in a single day is a serious effort that requires fitness and determination.
From Ferpècle (1,766 m) you start on a good trail working your way upward until first the trees and then grass give way to endless rock and scree. From about 2600m onward the direction of the journey is indicated by cairns and a few poles, but the trail itself is mostly inexistant.
Once you have reached the Cabane de la Dent Blanche at 3500m the remaining 850m of elevation gain are more technical. You need to cross some snow and glacier before you reach the final rock ridge. Hundreds of crampons have eaten their way into the rock and the preferred route can be deduced quite easily from their scratch marks. The exposure and the need for precision are quite constant, but the climbing feels solid and engaging. It’s a route that demands your full presence, and the effort is its own reward. Most people go in rope teams and rappel on the way down, which can make for quite some
As always the way down feels endless, but in fact it is just the same 11km as the way up =)
Grade of the route: AD 4b>3b III P3
Good description and photos can be found here: https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/54153/fr/dent-blanche-arete-s-ou-wandfluegrat-voie-normale-
