Route description
The Eiger Mittellegi Integral follows the complete eastern ridge of the Eiger, starting in Grindelwaldand climbing via Alpiglen, the Ostegghütte, the Ostegg–Mittellegi Integral, the Mittellegihütte and the classic Mittellegi Ridge to the 3,967 m summit of the Eiger.
From Grindelwald, the route climbs on roads and mountain tracks to Alpiglen (1,616 m). From Alpiglen it follows the Eiger Trail towards the Ostegg approach. At approximately 1,750 m, the route leaves the main hiking trail and climbs progressively steeper and more exposed terrain towards the Eiger-Ostegg via ferrata. The approach crosses steep grassy and rocky slopes and several gullies before reaching a prominent saddle and the beginning of the ferrata at roughly 2,060 m.
The Eiger-Ostegg via ferrata is graded K4/T5 by the Swiss Alpine Club. The first rock step is climbed without a cable, after which cables and iron steps lead through a steep gully and several steeper rock sections. Above the ferrata, easier but still alpine terrain leads to the Ostegghütte at 2,317 m, situated on the eastern end of the Eiger ridge.
From the Ostegghütte begins the Mittellegi Integral proper. The route climbs over scree, broken rock and increasingly exposed ridge terrain to gain the Ostegg ridge. The character is markedly wilder and less travelled than the classic Mittellegi Ridge above the hut, with sustained scrambling, route-finding and exposed climbing. The route passes through the characteristic rock hole (“Hick”) and includes several technical climbing passages, including approximately two pitches around UIAA V / 5c. Local guide descriptions identify the Hick section as the principal technical difficulty of the Integral.
The ridge then continues over numerous towers, notches and sections of variable rock towards the Mittellegihütte (3,355 m). This completes the lower Integral section and joins the classic Mittellegi route. The full Ostegg–Mittellegi section is characterized by continuous exposed ridge climbing and significantly greater route-finding demands than the upper ridge.
From the Mittellegihütte, the route follows the classic Mittellegi Ridge, the Eiger’s highly exposed northeast ridge. Initially the crest is comparatively broad before becoming progressively steeper and more technical. Numerous gendarmes are generally climbed directly, with short rock steps alternating with narrow ridge terrain. Several of the steeper sections are equipped with fixed ropes.
Higher on the ridge, the route crosses the Grosse Turm, followed by a short rappel/down-climb into the subsequent notch and the major fixed-rope sections. Above these, the angle gradually eases, but the exposure remains considerable. Depending on conditions, the upper ridge may involve rock, snow or mixed terrain and can require crampons.
The final section follows the increasingly narrow upper ridge and, in suitable conditions, the characteristic snow/firn arête, with the Eiger North Face dropping away immediately to the north. The ridge ultimately leads directly to the summit of the Eiger at 3,967 m. The Swiss Alpine Club grades the classic Mittellegi Ridge D, with approximately 680 m of ascent from the Mittellegihütte to the summit.
Route: Grindelwald → Alpiglen → Eiger-Ostegg via ferrata → Ostegghütte → Ostegg/Mittellegi Integral → Mittellegihütte → Mittellegi Ridge → Eiger summit, 3,967
