This is a loop through the Auvergne countryside, about an hour’s drive from Clermont-Ferrand, in a region of old volcanoes, farmland and small stone villages. It is not a high-mountain route. Its appeal is how much variety it packs into a modest altitude (the highest point is about 700 m).
A queen’s exile as the storyline. The route is named after Marguerite de Valois, known as Queen Margot: daughter of King Henry II, first wife of Henry IV of France. She spent twenty years in exile (1586 to 1605) in a fortress at Usson, which was reputed to be the strongest place in the kingdom. The route follows in her footsteps, so you get history along with the running.
Usson, the highlight. Usson is a hilltop village ranked among the Most Beautiful Villages of France, built around a volcanic butte. From the top, by the statue of the Virgin, you see the Chaîne des Puys, the Sancy massif and the Livradois-Forez mountains in one 360° panorama. Basalt columns, known as basalt organs, are visible on the butte, and the ruins of the feudal castle sit among the houses.
Geology and heritage in one loop. The route mixes volcanic landscape with medieval and religious heritage. Sauxillanges has a former Benedictine priory, one of the most important in Auvergne, and Manglieu has its abbey. In between come the forest of La Comté, hamlets, farm tracks and views over the Val d’Allier plain.
Quiet and authentic. It is a rural route that links small villages and hamlets, with few crowds and a lot of local character. Walkers usually do it over about four days, so running it in one go as an FKT is a serious athletic challenge. The 57 km with 1,500 m of gain comes as a long series of short climbs rather than one big ascent !!!
