Route: Mcgown Peak

Submitted by Barrett Davis on Thu, 07/25/2024 - 05:05pm
Location
Idaho, US
Distance
11.6 mi
Vertical Gain
3,500 ft
Description

Sitting at 9,800 ft, Mcgown peak is one of the most photographed peaks in the Sawtooths with its intimidating northern face, although when approached from the east a much more mellow mountain begins to take way.

To climb this peak start at the Stanley Lake trail head and make your way onto alpine way trail. After plus or minus 4 miles of trail, breakoff onto a hard to find secondary trail that doesn't become developed until about 100 feet into the woods (If lost just make your way up the hill side and you'll find the trail countours and sidehills under the ridge). Once found, take and try to stay on the trail until you come upon the first alpine lake. Hug the southern edge of the lake and cross over into the meadow where you can stay on the southern edge until you approach the last lake in the cirque. From this lake keep going east and start heading up the treeline that ascends to the top of the ridge towards Mcgown. Some people use the descent route as the ascent route, but I've found that the scree closest to the ridge is much more stable and has more anchors, making it faster to ascend then the loose scree you come down on. Once you've made it to the ridge hug the side until you get to the final scramble to the top with a couple 4th class moves. Take the easiest way down off the summit scramble and go straight down the scree field where you can plunge step and surf your way down, but be very careful as the dirt gets hard at random spots and can catch you off guard. Once out of the scree, cross the meadow and go back the way you came. 

GPS Track