Route: North Peak-Conness, Double Traverse

Submitted by Vitaliy Musiyenko on Mon, 07/04/2022 - 10:11am
California, US
16.6 mi
Vertical Gain
10,960 ft

This route maximizes scrambling to hiking ratio like no other I can think of in California's High Sierra. You get 5(!) classic routes for the price of one approach!

1) Start at Saddlebag Lake, hike/jog to the base of North Peak's North Couloir (AI2-3), climb it. Crampons/ice tools are required. Summit the mountain and stash the gear somewhere safe, or continue on with all the gear.

2) Traverse easy terrain to the start of North Ridge of Conness. Climb it. The downclimb in the middle is the crux at 5.6. For best rock and most fun, and easy route finding, keep close to the crest.

3) After summiting Conness, drop down the chute below its stunning SW face and climb the super classic West Ridge (you can expect to find climbing a little harder than 5.6 on it, unless you've done the route before and know exactly where to go).  Summit Conness again.

4) Downclimb the North Ridge of Conness, which turns into a whole different challenge if you are downclimbing the easier 5th class and climbing up the crux.

5) Summit the North Peak, pick up your stashed gear, continue down the NW Ridge of North Peak (about 5.4). The exposure in the beginning is fantastic.

Admin note: This is an open course route, as long as you complete the five climbs/scrambles and start/end at the Saddlebag Lake trailhead. The gpx shown is just one route option.

GPS Track