West McMillan Spire, Southern Pickets, North Cascades, Washington – Standard Route via Goodell Creek & The Notch
Trailhead: Goodell Creek Trailhead, accessed via SR-20 to Newhalem, then Goodell Creek Road (just east of Goodell Campground) to the Upper Goodell Creek Group Camp. The unmarked trail starts near a large boulder behind the campground. No permit required for a single-push day trip; a North Cascades National Park backcountry permit is required for overnight camping in Terror Basin.
Distance/Gain: Approximately 20 miles round trip with over 10,000 ft of elevation gain, car-to-car.
Route: From the trailhead, the climbers' path follows Goodell Creek for ~4 miles before climbing steeply to about 3,200 ft where it levels onto a forested ridge. The trail continues through heather benches and blueberry fields to treeline, then ascends to a notch in the ridge, then descending a steep, loose scramble down the far side into Terror Basin. From the basin, traverse north toward the glacial lake at the base of the peak, following cairns and a faint boot path. Ascend snow and rock toward the Terror Glacier and the base of West McMillan's west ridge. A steep gully (snow or loose scree, depending on the time of year) leads up to the ridge crest, followed by Class 3 rock and ledge systems to the summit.
Hazards/Notes: Remote and rugged approach with real routefinding challenges; the notch descent into Terror Basin is loose and exposed; glacier travel and a snow bridge crossing require appropriate gear; creek crossings can run high in hot weather; gully is extremely loose when no snow present, helmet strongly advised.
