https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/karl-egloff-smashes-denali-speed-record/
By Rock and Ice | June 21st, 2019
Move over Kilian Jornet, there’s a new fastest man on Denali. Karl Egloff, the 38-year-old Swiss-Ecuadorian who has been taking down Jornet’s speed records on the Seven Summits one by one, has done it once more. On Thursday, June 20, Egloff climbed Denali in 11 hours 44 minutes roundtrip, base camp (7,200 feet) to base camp, taking 7 hours 40 minutes to reach the summit (20,310 feet) and another 4 hours 4 minutes to get back down.
Egloff smashed Jornet’s previous ascent record, shaving 2 hours 5 minutes off of the Spaniard’s previous record of 9 hours 45 minutes from base camp to summit that he set in 2014. Egloff’s roundtrip time was also faster than Jornet’s (11:45) by a single minute, despite the fact that Jornet descended on skis while Egloff completed the entire climb—up and down—on foot.
(Editor Note: Podcast here with Karl, plus links to two previous podcasts with him).
I started with snowshoes alone with a camelbag, shoes , trail running warm layers food, water. In camp 4 (medical camp) I changed my shoes and took crampons in my bag as well as an extra layer. Summit and all the way down alone running . Left gear in camp 4 and continued to KIA Base camp . Just ran airstrip- camp 1-airstrip with snowshoes , the rest without , no skies