The highest peak in North America (20,310'). The FKT is up & back from Base Camp at 7,200'. In 2023, this route was standardized, for the future, as starting and finishing at the door of the 2023 base camp manager's hut. The location of this hut changes every year, but the route will always start and finish at this location.
Coordinates: 62.96795, -151.16737
Would be cool to have a more complete historical listing of the speed records on this Peak, since it is one of the 7 summits
A fine idea Jason ... however don't think any of us can squeeze that in ... it would be a good project for you (or anyone)? Just post it in the Comments - would be appreciated by all!
This is a super cursory list just from internet searches, but also point out that the rules for an FKT that " At least 50% of time must be running and/or hiking, vs. other sports." is problematic for this kind of route, because it means that Killian's 2014 record and Ed Warren's 2013 record don't count as "FKT's" since they skiied most of it.
Killian Jornet - Ascent 9:45 Round trip -11:45 - 2014 (Went up & down Rescue Gully, Used skis on both ascent & descent)
Ed Warren - Ascent 12:30? Round trip - 16:46 - 2013 (https://www.vnews.com/Archives/2013/06/denali-jp-vn-061613 - used skis)
Chad Kellog - Ascent -14:22 Round trip - 23:55 - 2003 https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/13826-chad-kellogg-denali-speed…
Alex Lowe - Ascent 18:30? 1995 (Maybe didn't summit? https://www.outsideonline.com/1831826/mutant-and-boy-scout-battle-20000…)
Anatoly Boukareev - 10:30 Airstrip to summit Round trip - Under 24hrs - 1990 - https://www.summitpost.org/phpBB3/denali-speed-record-t48506.html
Galen Rowell & Ned Gillette - One day? - 1978
It doesn't look like I can go back and edit a post, but it should read:
Anatoli Boukreev - 10:30 etc..
Hey I talked to ranger Mark Westman regarding Anatoli's effort. His take:
I’m not sure, but I believe they mean from the base of the west rib in the northeast fork to the summit. Boukreev was an animal and I think it would totally have been possible for him to do that in 1990. Like I said not 100% sure but that would be my guess, that the clock started at the foot of the route
I just find it unlikely that he climbed the route, from the airstrip/basecamp, to the summit via the West Rib in that time. I think it's possible, but that's a very modern time and would only be executed in perfect conditions.