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Route: Denali (AK)

Location
Alaska, US
Description

The highest peak in North America (20,310').  The FKT is up & back from Base Camp at 7,200'. In 2023, this route was standardized, for the future, as starting and finishing at the door of the 2023 base camp manager's hut. The location of this hut changes every year, but the route will always start and finish at this location. 

Coordinates: 62.96795, -151.16737

GPS Track
Bulls_on_Parade_3733nodes.gpx471.98 KB

FKTs

Comments

User Picture
Profile picture for user Jason Hardrath @jasonhardrath

Jason Hardrath…
Thu, 12/19/2019 - 02:11pm

Would be cool to have a more complete historical listing of the speed records on this Peak, since it is one of the 7 summits

A fine idea Jason ... however don't think any of us can squeeze that in ... it would be a good project for you (or anyone)?  Just post it in the Comments - would be appreciated by all!

Jonathan Byers
Mon, 01/27/2020 - 02:32pm

This is a super cursory list just from internet searches, but also point out that the rules for an FKT that " At least 50% of time must be running and/or hiking, vs. other sports." is problematic for this kind of route, because it means that Killian's 2014 record and Ed Warren's 2013 record don't count as "FKT's" since they skiied most of it.

Killian Jornet - Ascent 9:45 Round trip -11:45 - 2014 (Went up & down Rescue Gully, Used skis on both ascent & descent)

Ed Warren - Ascent 12:30? Round trip - 16:46 - 2013  (https://www.vnews.com/Archives/2013/06/denali-jp-vn-061613 - used skis)

Chad Kellog - Ascent -14:22 Round trip - 23:55 - 2003 https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/13826-chad-kellogg-denali-speed…

Alex Lowe - Ascent 18:30? 1995 (Maybe didn't summit? https://www.outsideonline.com/1831826/mutant-and-boy-scout-battle-20000…)

Anatoly Boukareev - 10:30 Airstrip to summit Round trip - Under 24hrs - 1990 - https://www.summitpost.org/phpBB3/denali-speed-record-t48506.html

Galen Rowell & Ned Gillette - One day? - 1978

 

It doesn't look like I can go back and edit a post, but it should read:

Anatoli Boukreev - 10:30 etc..

Hey I talked to ranger Mark Westman regarding Anatoli's effort. His take: 

I’m not sure, but I believe they mean from the base of the west rib in the northeast fork to the summit. Boukreev was an animal and I think it would totally have been possible for him to do that in 1990. Like I said not 100% sure but that would be my guess, that the clock started at the foot of the route

I just find it unlikely that he climbed the route, from the airstrip/basecamp, to the summit via the West Rib in that time. I think it's possible, but that's a very modern time and would only be executed in perfect conditions. 

These speed records blow my mind. While I did have a relatively tight window to pull off my Death Valley to Denali Low to High, It still took me and my climbing team 11 days to summit Denali from Basecamp after walking in from Talkeetna after riding up from Badwater.  These speed records on a mountain like Denali seem super sketchy to me given how quick weather moves in on the mountain.