FKT: Tracy O'Brien, Michael O'Brien - Mt Rainier (WA) - 2026-05-09

Route variation
round trip with skis
Multi-sport
Yes
Para athlete
No
Gender category
Mixed-gender team
Style
Unsupported
Start date
Finish date
Total time
9h 53m 5s
GPS track(s)
Report

We climbed via the Ingraham Direct Route making great time to the summit ~6 hours and 45 minutes. The route was filled in, frozen and fast, making for efficient climbing. We didn't have a good sense for how long it would take us to summit given time/speed was our tertiary goal (safety was primary and route recon for the Infinity Loop was secondary) so we decided to leave at 1am from the Paradise parking lot which was way too early. After summiting and skiing across the crater, we put skis back on our packs and down climbed for a good ways before the snow was soft enough for Tracy to ski confidently. We skied for a ways down the Ingraham direct, then put crampons back on for the traverse towards Camp Muir since it was still firm and exposed above cliffs and crevasses. We finally skied past Muir and had great corn down to the parking lot (with a little faffing over rocks/dirt). It was such an amazing spring day down low.

We wasted a lot of time with transitions and also had some crampon and boot issues to address, we also took a few breaks to add layers, stay warm and protect from the wind. We easily had an hour + of random downtime along the route.

We fueled primarily with gels and high carb drink mix, eating very little real food to keep things fast and efficient at altitude.

We roped up at Camp Muir to the crater entrance, and then again from the crater exit until we skied. We also roped up along the travers to Muir since we used crampons to reduce risk.

We were stoked to clock the FKT for mixed gender unsupported w/ skis, but there is plenty of room for another couple to top this time with ease! Our background is endurance running and ski touring, with Michael being the more proficient party in terms of mountaineering.

Absolutely banger day out!