Route: Mount Louis (AB, Canada)

Submitted by Michael Burke on Thu, 11/18/2021 - 11:14am
Alberta, CA
18 km
Vertical Gain
1,500 m

Mount Louis is an iconic Canadian Rockies peak.  The easiest way up the mountain is the Kain Route.  At the final headwall, where Kain climbed a chimney, most climbers now go out right and climb the fantastically exposed Perren Crack at 5.7.  Legendary guide Conrad Kain made the FA with Albert MacCarthy in 1916.  Looking back at the mountain from Edith Pass, Kain is reported to have said to MacCarthy "Ye Gods, Mr MacCarthy, just look at that; they never will believe we climbed it."  An excellent history of Mount Louis can be found here:

The FKT route starts and finishes at the Fireside Day Use Area.  Access the peak via the Edith Pass trail.  Climb the peak by following the Kain Route and Perren Crack on the headwall.  Once at the summit (marked with a steel cross), descend the standard rap route (10 raps or combination of downclimbing and raps) and follow the climbers' trail back down to the base of the mountain.  Return to Fireside by the same trail used for the approach.

GPS Track