Route: Mount Terror (WA)

Submitted by ParkerKempf on Fri, 09/03/2021 - 11:42am
Location
Washington, US
Distance
20 mi
Vertical Gain
10,000 ft
Description

Mt. Terror, the tallest peak in the infamous Southern Pickets of Washingtons North Cascades National Park.

Like everything in the Pickets, this is remote, rugged, and rowdy. Folks attempting Terror (or anything in the Pickets, really) are encouraged to check out Steph Abegg's fantastic Pickets beta webpage. The west ridge of Terror is low 5th class, but the least technical route up the peak. 

Starting at Goodell Creek trailhead, follow the creek trail for 3.5 miles, then ascend straight up the climbers trail gaining about 5'000 to Terror Basin, traverse the basin holding a contour of about 6,000' then cross the Barrier (Pickets '3rd class') at around 6,100'. Sidehill and descend to the Chopping Block col, and then drop and traverse to west ridge of Terror on endless scree and talus. Ascend the main gully on the western side of Terror's shoulder. At the notch begin climbing the first hundred feet of the west ridge proper at about 5.0 then follow 3rd and 4th class to summit, traversing around a false summit around 7,900'. Tag summit and reverse route to Chopping Block col, and descend Terror Creek trail all the way back to Goodell Creek trail. 

It's not an out and back, and its not a loop, and its not a lollipop, I'm gonna call it a 'jolly rancher' because it's kinda shaped like that if you squint and have a weird sense of humor.

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