Route: Mt Hood (OR)

Oregon, US

Ryan Ghelfi posted:

Mount Hood is the tallest mountain in Oregon and one of the most climbed Cascade Volcanoes. It stands at 11,250ft. It is a relatively easy climb/hike for the first 4,000 vertical feet, with the last approx 1,000ft being technical snow climbing. 

The standard South side route starts from the Timberline Lodge parking lot and goes up the climbers trail through the ski area. After reaching the top of the ski area (8,500ft) the route works up to the "hogsback" which is a narrow rib of snow that leads up to the "pearly gates" which is the steepest section of the route. 

The current FKT is held by a skier named Jason Dorais. He skinned and then booted to the summit in 1:27:46. He made his record a round trip time (skiing down) in 1:44.

I intend to try and break Jason's record for The ascent only, on foot. I believe that for technical mountains like Hood, a skier will generally hold the round trip record, or at least should if attempts are made by fast and strong skiers. Keeping a record for fastest time to the summit is the most pure in my mind as there are no real means of mechanical or technical advantage. I would say that a skier or a climber could try to hold the ascent time on relatively equal playing field. 

I am planning to take a shot at breaking Jason's ascent time tomorrow (Dec, 7, 2017) This will be my second attempt on this record. The first one was stopped 50 vertical meters from the summit due to bringing inadequate equipment. Weather and snow conditions will play a big role in terms of the viability of getting this record (along with fitness and performance) but you never know until you try. For reference, here is my Strava file from my first aborted attempt earlier this year.  I turned around at 1:22:XX with 50m of vert left to climb.

The  PNW has a long stretch of high pressure and clear weather which makes it reasonable to give this a go in December.  I plan on starting around 7:30-8:00m Dec 8. 

Admin note:  Ghelfi did not report an FKT.



Climbed Mount Hood on June 9th 2019. Summit 1:42, Round trip 2:35

Strava track:

I started at Timberline lodge parking area, climbed the South Side route and intended on taking the pearly gates (most direct route) to the summit. I ended up taking the old Chute route due to several roped up partys on the pearly gates. 

Logistically I found this climb tricky. Consolidated snow is required if you choose to go on foot, and the upper 1000ft requires crampons making it tough to move fast in my opinion. Recent snow fall, warm temperatures and crowds made it tough to move quickly enough to even get close to Jasons time. I think skinning is the way to go for a truly fast ascent. Maybe I need to invest? Hopefully I'll be back next year and weather permitting give it another go.