Route: Mt Willingdon (AB, Canada)

Alberta, CA

Mount Willingdon is located in the wild eastern section of Banff National Park, the last expansive area of true wilderness within the park. This mountain is more about scenic views, wild animal encounters, or hopefully only viewing, and long approaches then quality climbing or classic mountaineering. Having just said that, the North-East Face of the Willingdon Massif presents an extensive glacier and a beautiful snow/ice route, likely unrepeated since the original 1977 ascent. If interested in this remote route, climb it soon (or in a big snow year like the summer of 2011), since the upper ice section is melting out fast.

Mount Willingdon is low on the list of Canadian Rockies 11,000 footers, depending on your perspective, either the 39th or 44th highest mountain in the Canadian Rockies; 44 th on the generally accepted list of 54 summits. The summit is just over the magic 11,000 ft. mark at 3373 metres (11,067 ft.).

The Willingdon Massif (main summit and southern outliers) does provide interesting and worthwhile climbing by extending the climb south-east from the main summit. Ascend the standard West Ridge to the summit of Mt. Willingdon, moderate snow climbing south-east reaches the impressive outlier, unofficially named Crown (3337 m), and unofficially named Willingdon 3 (3325 m).

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