The route links all 6 summits that surround Hidden Lake at the popular Logan Pass in Glacier National Park— Reynolds, Dragon’s Tail, Bearhat, Cannon, Clements, and Oberlin. All of the summits require scrambling and some of them have 4th or 5th class moves but the routes were chosen specifically to not need rope. Rockfall leading to a slip or fall is the most likely danger on route. There are some sections with ample loose rock and loose scree that can flow quite a ways down gullies. Completing the route solo could help eliminate this problem, but please be aware that there could be “climbers” coming up that you may not have seen.
Reference Edward Gordons’ “A Climber’s Guide to Glacier National Park” for old school beta and history, as well as Blake Passmore’s modern “Climb Glacier National Park, Vol. 1” for beta photos.
The ROMP uses the following routes on each summit:
Reynolds— north face to east couloir, then down the SW talus. (A great recon loop!)
Dragon’s Tail— standard traverse approach below the ridge. The escape off the summit is undocumented until now. Tag the summit and then return to the low point north of the summit. Follow goat trails down to the basin.
Bearhat— east face. The northeast couloir is possible as an exit, but the scree is very loose and it will take much longer than going down the easy east face.
Cannon— well-used ridgeline out-and-back.
Clements— approach via the exposed but easy north ridge. Exit: East couloir. This is the crux of the day. With fatigue, caution is necessary, but the rock is solid. Chimney down the narrow couloir, occasionally leaving the gut of the rift to avoid unsettling scree. When the couloir opens up a bit, look for a small group of saplings that mark the escape traverse. The traverse is surprisingly secure.
Oberlin— one easy class 5 section gets you to the top! Then it’s an easy social trail to the car.
Note about the route: Any routes could be used to tag all the summits, but the one laid out here is probably the fastest and most fun. More often than not, you’re walking up on trail and surfing down on scree, rather than the opposite. Be aware that if you do not utilize the intimidating east couloir of Clements, bagging Oberlin will be much more circuitous.
