Route: Tenaya Peak, NW Buttress (CA)

Submitted by Jason Hardrath… on Wed, 11/21/2018 - 09:14am
California, US
2.7 mi

Tenaya Peak via Northwest Buttress 5.4YDS, If you are looking for a "quick sprint" slab free-solo then this is it! 
The basics: 
- Start at the little pull off along beach at the Northeast corner of the lake. (You can start at the parking lot just a tenth of a mile further too but running along the beach with a view of your whole climb above you is just so much more aesthetic but perhaps slower, your call) 
- run along the beach until the picnic area then spot the faint climbers trail along the creek turn left l, away from the lake, to follow this. 
- at some point cross the creek when you see a climbers trail you like on the other side (you can see the path of your climb from here so it is easy) 
- arrive at the base and climb "Northwest Buttress" (Note: after doing more research it seems like if you want to bypass the first wall to gain the easier slab above, this is acceptable and can be done by going climbers left around it on a faint trail (I hit this after my down climb) I climbed the first wall for "full value") 
- top out the route and turn climbers right to cruise the last minute or two to the actual summit
-now as you face the lake, you can either take the ridge down descenders right (towards your view of Half-Dome) and work your way down a system of ledges and scree or reverse what you just climbed (I down-climbed) 
- enjoy turning around at the end of the beach as you tag your car to relish in where your legs (and hands) just took you. 
[-retrospectively, between climbing the first wall, the choice to down climb instead of hike and the beach start...there is probably 15-25 min worth of time.] 

GPS Track
Tenaya.gpx924.04 KB


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It looks like John Clark bested the ascent time to 45:12 on Tenaya Peak en route to the point to point Tuolumne Triple FKT. 

parking to peak sitting at 40:47. probably a min plus saved by newly cairned approach.