Starting from Wetterhorn Hotel car park. Through the forest and over the alp along the trail. Stay on steep technical trail running above the cliffs till in line with the cracking glacier. Along further till the Glechsteinhutte. From here your off trail its scrambly rock hopping following cairns (difficult in the dark) but moving uphill until the glacier crossing. Spikes on head directly up the glacier spur increasing in steepness till hands and/or axe are used. Hop over the Bergschrund when ready. Here you must climb in grade 3-4 with no room for error. Once on the rockband traverse over crumbling scree often exposed till you reach the Willsgratli (also hard route finding). Once on the grat some exposed srambling till the saddle, here rocks can be large and loose, mountain savvy is required. After the saddle steep scree (often snow covered) leads along the ridge with irons posts for mountaineers. When just beneath the summit take a sharp left heading towards the west of the summit ridge. From here its a short push across snow to the summit. Return the same way route finding must be good, the wrong ridge down from the saddle could have some consequences.
