Route: Cosmic Wall, Mt Hubris (CA)
Jason Hardrath submitted this route which combines running and scrambling to YDS 5.6:
The "Cosmic Wall" 5.6R on Mt.Hubris in Castle Crags, California is perhaps the most highly rated (Classic) 5.6 in California (outside of Yosemite). I found it only natural that this line should be a Car-to-Summit and Car-to-Car effort. I did project climb the route 3 times before my first attempt C2C. Before attempting this route do plenty of research on Mountain Project and/or thecrag.com to be sure you understand the route...there are also some great videos on youtube "Cosmic Wall Castle Crags".
Start at the Edge of the Vista Point lot at the Castle Dome Trail.
follow this first fairly flat trail for a quarter mile before taking a left turn uphill still following signs for Castle Dome.
there are three more intersections, you go generally "straight" through all of them, keep following the signs for Castle Dome.
Mile 2.41, when you are almost up to the saddle where you would follow the trail right to climb the Dome break left up what looks to be a run off gully which will turn into a series of very tiny climbers trails through the manzanita
from mile 2.45 - 2.76 is on these very thin climbers trails...it is painful...don't wear clothing you are particularly fond of, plan to be bleeding a bit.
at 2.76 is where the climbing shoes go on
climb some friendly but occasionally exposed 5.6 for 800' on the "Cosmic Wall" of Mt.Hubris
reach the anchors, Either downclimb what you came up or rappel on a 60m rope to the rings next to the tree below you and then again to the ravine floor.
once back on the ground reverse the .31-.4 miles of painful narrow trail following
Once out of the bramble haul ass for 2.4 miles back to the Vista Point Parking Lot.
For Clarity on the "Car to Car",
- Unsupported is obviously you carrying anything you use for the climb and to come back down as per usual.
- if you are going as an unsupported team to simul-climb with some protection your partner must start the run with you
- if your partner goes ahead and meets you at the climb then it would be "supported"
- and as would be the norm, if you took anything in yourself or fixed your rappel line yourself before hand "self-supported"
It is a scary route, and I want people to feel safe but accurate.