Route: Mt. Conness (CA)

Submitted by Travis.Soares on Thu, 06/24/2021 - 09:29am
California, US
11 mi
Vertical Gain
4,116 m

Mt. Conness is a striking peak with long ridges and massive vertical relief. It is the third highest peak (12, 590) in Yosemite National Park.


West Ridge - North Ridge:

Linking the West Ridge to the North Ridge makes for an awesome day of continuous climbing and exposure! One cannot help but feel as though you are clawing your way up the back of a giant granite dragon!

The West Ridge 5.6 was first climbed in 1957 by Dick Long and Jim Wilson. The placed only a single piton and finished around 4 in the morning. Apparently the route received little attention until Peter Croft explored it in the 1980s and stated that it "is one of the best routes in the High Sierra." 

The North Ridge 5.6 was first climbed in July of 1968 by Susanne Pestel and Herbert Rickert. It consists of mostly easy 5th class with a few moves of 5.6 sprinkled about.

The east side of the dam (closest to the parking lot) seemed the natural beginning to the route. From there travel cross country to the West Ridge of Conness. Climb the ridge, (don't forget to tag the summit!) and descend down the North Ridge. From the end of the ridge follow the trail back to the dam.

Climbing beta:

This is an incredible adventure whether you go fast or slow! Most importantly enjoy the experience!

Tuolumne Alpine Triple Crown:  Adding the North Ridge of North Peak to the above makes for an excellent link-up of 3 beautiful ridges.  Begin at Saddlebag Lake, climb the North Ridge of North Peak (low 5th), continue to the North Ridge of Conness (5.7 downclimb or rappel), descend to and climb the West Ridge of Conness (5.6), hike out to Sawmill and back up the road or cross-country straight to Saddlebag. I tracked 12.2 miles and calculated ~5,440ft.

Here's the Mountain Project Page.